A shortcut to Dior’s haute couture glamour, the season’s hourglass blazer looks ultra luxurious …
Autumn winter blazers mostly fall into two categories: masculine or demure. And if the idea of a boxy, oversized style isn’t for you then look to hourglass shapes with sculptural appeal. An altogether more feminine take on tailoring, an hourglass blazer nips dramatically at the waist, creating a striking silhouette. Some even boast a couture-like look with high-fashion details such as boning and jetted front pockets. Shoulder pads are present too, but they’re more subtle, there to balance out the waist, eliminating any Wall Street overtones.
It’s a look long championed by designers such as Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior (who is, naturally, remixing the classic New Look invented by Christian Dior in 1947). In fact, the silhouette is so steeped in fashion heritage it grants a certain kind of kudos to any blazer, no matter the price point. Lately, the look has been championed by contemporary brands like Khaite and mid-range labels like Swedish brand Stylein (I tried its Bosco blazer, pictured below, in real life. It feels undeniably elegant). It’s trickled down to the high street with classic black versions coming to the fore at Zara for autumn. H&M has come through with cream iterations inbuilt with shaping darts for a defined waist. Kudos to The Frankie Shop too, its Colette blazer creates a striking hourglass shape from a decent weight cotton and a waist so contoured I can’t tell if it’s more Kim Kardashian or grand couturier. (Perhaps it’s both: isn’t that, after all, the definition of the modern mix?)
A word to the wise: if you’re going to embrace the hourglass look, the silhouette must be exaggerated. This will avoid you looking like you simply bought a narrow blazer that feels a bit outdated. Additionally, traditional narrow styles are quite long-line which only work if you’re tall or have an outstanding commitment to wearing heels.
Black Bosco tailored fitted double-breasted jacket with jetted pockets, Stylein, €375; www.ecrustudios.com.
Cream waisted blazer, €89.99, at H&M.
Black Colette hourglass blazer, €289; www.thefrankieshop.com.
Black fitted blazer with padded shoulders, €79.95, at Zara.
Black double-breasted satin-trim blazer, Khaite, €3,530; www.net-a-porter.com.
If you prefer to shop your own wardrobe then take a note from the Proenza Schouler autumn winter collection (see Chloë Sevigny, pictured in the main image, above) and belt a regular-fit blazer to cinch the waist in. A skinny leather belt feels more now than wider, waisted belts which are more of a vintage throwback. Also, if you’d rather your waist be altogether un-cinched then jazz up your favourite blazer by adding a cool brooch to your lapel. Or you could embrace this blazer by & Other Stories which has a slim waist, is styled with a brooch and is made from a heavy recycled wool that means it can double as a coat: a triple threat.
Grey oversized blazer, €199, at & Other Stories.
