Greece doesn’t have the monopoly when it comes to island hopping holidays – these Irish options are every bit as appealing, with hidden coves, secret beaches and off-the-beaten-track trails…
Feel like you need to escape? We don’t blame you. Just as we thought we could begin to get back to normal (whatever that is post-pandemic) one look at the homepage of any major news website this week would having you running for the hills. But what if we told you we could help you do just that? With hidden coves, secret beaches and off-the-beaten-track trails, a weekend in one of these hideaways dotted around Ireland could be just the reset you need …
All kinds of characters are attracted to the sea-bashed shores of Irish islands. Glampers, castaways, hardy explorers, sporty surfers and hikers – there is a peninsula to suit every personality. But there are certain spots on these parts that cater well to the runaway character – he or she who just can’t stand still, who dashes to the ends of the earth, the most remote locations, as soon as their annual leave has been approved. They need headspace, and a guarantee of immersion in a brand new setting – preferably, craggy coastlines roaring with waves and wildlife. For escapists who are looking for isolation (of the good kind) above all else – keep scrolling to discover the best destinations for those that want to get lost …
Meanwhile, many of our finest islands (some with a little bit more life and activity) are found on the west coast of Ireland, and we’ve added some of the best western destinations for island exploration below in an easy to follow guide, from where to stay and what to eat to the hidden treasures to uncover. You might just find you won’t want to come back to reality at all …
Valentia Island, Co Kerry
Where… Off the coast of the Iveragh Peninsula, Valentia is accessible by road bridge at Portmagee, or by mini car ferry from Caherciveen.
Why go… Its history and scenery: from the history of the first transatlantic cable, the slate quarry, the 385m-year-old tetrapod tracks and the amazing Skelligs.
The vibe… family-friendly, it’s a very safe place for children to ride bikes or do watersports. There is no nighttime scene, except on festival and regatta days. In summer, chic Dubliners and Corkonians descend on their summer houses – when the island’s population of 665 rises, so does its style quotient. The look is chic sneakers, white jeans, Breton tops and colourful Patagonia jackets.
Where to stay… The Royal Hotel in the pretty village of Knightstown; Horizon View bed and breakfast, with harbour views; Atlantic Villa, a period house with sauna, organic garden and interesting library; Glanleam House and Gardens, family seat of the Knights of Kerry, now a country house B&B.
Where to eat… For breakfast, Le Petit Délice, a small café run by a French family with possibly the best croissants and baguettes in Munster. For lunch, the outdoor terrace of The Coffee Dock in Knightstown. For dinner, Quinlan & Cooke (known locally as QC’s) is renowned for its seafood. This boutique townhouse also has charming suites (with Nespresso machines and Bose speakers). In Portmagee, The Moorings, opposite where the boats to the Skelligs depart, has comfortable rooms and a good restaurant and bar. Seafood is a speciality at O’Neills The Point, at the Valentia ferry dock, where Tiger Woods was once spotted queuing. A little further afield, St Finian’s Bay has a surf school and the Skellig Chocolate Factory, with a new surf restaurant called Driftwood.
Make haste… to Geokaun Mountain, the highest peak on the island, with stunning 360-degree views.
Hidden treasures… The tiny beach at Glanleam. On a fine day, pack a picnic and take a boat trip to the uninhabited Blasket island of Beginis, for a hike and a swim. At night, look up: Valentia is within the Kerry International Gold Tier Dark Sky Reserve meaning that, on clear moonless nights, the sky is simply stunning.
Aran Islands, Co Galway
Get there quickly with a short eight-minute scenic flight from Connemara Airport to Inis Oírr, the smallest and most easterly of the Aran Islands. Alternatively hop aboard Aran Island Ferry Saoirse na Farraige, which launches its new route from Galway City Docks to Inis Mór in June; www.aranislandferries.com. Once off the ferry, check into the Inis Oírr hotel, or drop in to Alissa Donohue’s Teach An Tae to sample her home baking. Stop at the striking Áras Éanna, comprising a 70-seater theatre, craft studios and a small island museum.
Stop at An Siopa Ceardaíochta and browse handknit Aran sweaters and other local crafts, explore the underground church and burial site of St Caomhan, patron saint of the island. A ferry connects to Inis Mór, the largest island by area and population of the three islands.
Stay Inis Mór Aran Islands Glamping is right on the sea – if you get the weather, you could be on Santorini but with Dún Aonghasa fort and the legendary Worm Hole to visit. Opt for a pod or a tent; www.irelandglamping.ie.
Not to be missed is the sunset tour with the Hernon brothers from Aran Off Road Experiences. In the evening, Cill Rónán, the main village on the island, hosts lively music sessions at Tigh Joe Watty’s with the many talented entertainers living on the island, Inis Meáin is the smallest, most rugged island. If you can’t get a booking at the boutique Inis Meáin Suites, do buy one of its bright linen tops, left; www.inismeain.ie.
Remember the holiday with Man of Aran, €48, a sea-scented cologne with notes of Burren moss, lichen and bark; www.burrenperfumery.com.
OR, FOR A DAY TRIP…
Omey Island, Co Galway
Where… Tucked under the Aughrus Peninsula on the Connemara coast, about 20 minutes by car from Clifden.
Take me there! Set out on foot across the wide, sandy strand from Claddaghduff Quay at half-tide. Ask about tidal conditions in Sweeney’s pub in Claddaghduff before setting out.
Wear waterproof shoes, or better still, go barefoot across the sand. Pack your cossie and a sweater. You can drive too, but why would you?
What to see two beautiful beaches, the ruins of a monastic settlement, a fascinating graveyard and an area of ecological significance called “small dunes”.
Picnic or packed lunch… Tuck yourself into a rocky outcrop on either of the beaches and unwrap your sandwiches. If you want to dine before or after, try Sinéad Foyle and Philippa Duff’s Sea Hare restaurant at the Pier Bar in Cleggan and Oliver’s pub, an institution, on the quay opposite.
Local knowledge In late July or August every year, the Omey Races take place on the strand, horses charging, the sound of their hooves’ muffled by the sand.
Where to stay… Rent one of the houses in Claddaghduff with a view of Omey. Try High Waters, at the water’s edge; www.airbnb.com.
Below we’ve highlighted the island destinations that are perfect for escapists.
For a castaway experience | East House, Long Island, Co Cork
Proprietor Tracy Collins moved to the island in 2016 in search of a new lifestyle. She and her husband renovated a cottage. “For the first year we had no running water or electricity, but we survived. We have been healed by this wild island life and, being a life coach, I know how beneficial nature is for our wellbeing. During lockdown, the idea came to me to offer our castaway dream to others.” Visitors can “wild camp” on this private island, bringing their own tent, stove and food, or renting a two-man tent; Collins offers breakfast baskets and organic veggies to purchase. Future plans include opening a tea room and gardens, to share their ocean views. www.wildislandcamping.com
For an unplugged retreat | Clare Island Lighthouse, Co Mayo
This 200-year-old lighthouse in Clew Bay, Co Mayo is the birthplace of the pirate queen Grace O’Malley. There is wifi but no TV – the setting offers endless scope for walking, swimming, hiking, cycling and birdwatching. In the evening, curl up beside a turf fire and catch up on some reading, or write the first draft of your novel. Inside the completely restored listed building, with five bedrooms, a drawing room, library and kitchen, the decor is understated but very comfortable In keeping with the overall ethos, food is wholesome, locally sourced and complemented by a good international wine list. A two-night stay starts from €500 per person sharing; www.clareislandlighthouse.com.
For eco glampers | Pebble Pods, Strangford, Co Down
Nestled on the shores of Strangford Lough, Pebble Pods comprise three luxurious eco-friendly glamping pods – Trasnagh, Braddock and Drummond – which accommodate two people with amenities such as kitchenette, private hot tub, thermal sauna, firepit and barbecue area as well as free wifi. Not to mention complimentary bicycles and kayaking to explore Strangford Lough. Don’t leave without a visit to Daft Eddy’s on Sketrick Island for drinks or dinner. Pods are €130 per night; www.pebblepods.com.
For water sports enthusiasts | Bere Island, Co Cork
Wild Atlantic Glamping is at the east end of Bere Island, not far from Rerrin village. Ten luxury bell tents, designed by architect Alan Macilwraith from JCA Architects, are each named after a feature of the island. Each luxury bell tent is equipped with comfortable beds and has its own private terrace where you can relax and enjoy the views over Bantry Bay. Guests have access to fully equipped communal facilities. Island activities include yoga retreats, photography workshops, summer sailing courses and a watersports club. Wild Atlantic Glamping has teamed up with Bantry Bay Kayaks to offer guided tours and kayak rentals; www.wildatlanticglamping.ie.
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