We are delighted to welcome Julie Dupouy as our new Wine Editor. Julie comes with impeccable credentials and a huge passion for wine. Having qualified as a sommelier in south-west France in 2003, Julie moved to Ireland in 2004 to improve her English and expand her international wine knowledge. She has worked with some of Ireland’s best chefs, at Patrick Guilbaud and Chapter One, among other restaurants. Meanwhile she competed in national and international sommelier competitions, winning the Irish national competition on three occasions and finishing third in the world at the ASI World Championships in 2016, in Mendoza, Argentina. A passion for wine is complemented by an interest in everything that is interesting and good quality to drink. Julie has a WSET Level 3 qualification in sake and has also studied at the London Tea Academy.

Julie’s columns will appear in print for the September issue. In the meantime, you can enjoy her bi-weekly columns here on thegloss.ie, in which she will recommend light-drinking summer wines for lunches, brunches, suppers and sipping, with pairing suggestions for food. She begins by suggesting some wines for this weekend …

Wines for post-pandemic pleasure …

Michael Broadbent, Master of Wine, and acclaimed wine critic said, “Drinking good wine with good food in good company is one of life’s most civilized pleasures.” And, indeed, the past year has left us with plenty of catching up to do.

Summer 2021 presents bright possibilities, relief from the mundanity and frustrations of the recent past. Why shouldn’t we allow ourselves a little indulgence over the warmer months, albeit sensibly? It is time to catch up with friends and family, to break bread together and, of course, to pull some corks! 

I am often asked about the greatest wines that I have ever tasted. If I could answer honestly, about the memories of wine which I cherish most dearly, the truth is, these were very simple moments. Most often, these memories were made in the homes of close friends or family, eating homely food and enjoying wines whose quality far surpasses expectation.

With the wonderful choice that we have on the Irish market now, there are endless interesting options available to make this summer’s dinner parties all the more special. To narrow down your browsing, I have selected some of my current favourites, and detailed these below. Ask your local independent wine stockist about reputable wine makers who produce these styles – they will be delighted to help you.

White Wines

Torrontés

Many of you will be familiar with the wonderful red wines of Argentina, but the country is also home to a unique white grape variety – Torrontés. Torrontés is related to the beautifully perfumed Muscat grape and is used to produce some gorgeous wines with a dry, fresh and fragrant character. Aromas of rose petals, lemon peel and exotic fruits are the core typicity of Torrontés. It is an excellent match for the aromatic and mildly spicy dishes of Thai cuisine. Alternatively, try it with some fresh cantaloupe melon and mint salad.

Grüner Veltliner

Grüner Veltliner, the signature grape of Austria, never ceases to surprise me. The style of GV can vary from light and aromatically spicy to slightly riper and richer in texture with a deliciously appealing stone fruit and savoury profile. I love it with simple dishes such as grilled mackerel fillets with a fennel and orange salad or with a gently baked loin of cod served with a vibrant gremolata. It also works well with creamy textured cheese.

 Aligoté

I love introducing people to the Aligoté grape variety. Aligoté, from Burgundy, in France, has lived in the shadow of its big brother Chardonnay for far too long. I have really enjoyed seeing its potential and quality receive more focus in recent years by ambitious wine growers, as its results can be fabulous. Aligoté is crisp and saline with fresh hazelnuts, white flowers, citrus notes and it always offers good value for money. Try it with a classic linguini alle vongole, a Venetian pasta dish made with fresh clams.

Rosé Wines

From pale rosé gold to a deep pomegranate colour, from dry to those with a touch of sweetness, still or sparkling, there is a rose for everyone. Mediterranean Rosés will generally offer an elegant, light, floral and savoury style. They are the ideal summer aperitif and pair very well with light dishes such as a salad of Heirloom tomatoes, Burrata, a simple vinaigrette and plenty of aromatic herbs. 

 I also personally love the darker styles of rosé wines, known as Clairet. They can offer a great alternative to light reds thanks to their intensity of flavours and richer mouthfeel. 

For those special days why not pop a cork rather than pulling it? Rosé Champagnes are a luxurious aperitif. However, don’t underestimate their versatility for food and wine pairings particularly with lighter, fresher summer cuisine. 

Red Wines

Beaujolais has been popular as pleasurable summer swill for many years. However, the quality available now of wines from the region of Beaujolais, bottled under their appellation names such as Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent or Brouilly deliver some of the best quality for your euros in all of Burgundy. These Gamay-based wines are supple and juicy reds with the structure and depth capable of mirroring the deep, savoury flavours of barbecued meats. They also work perfectly with charcuterie and tomato-based pasta dishes.

Etna Rosso wines from Sicily, made from the native Nerello Mascalese grape, grown on the volcanic soil of Mount Etna are more available than you may think and well worth seeking out . The wines are incredibly pure, mineral and fresh. Serve them with any cuts of lamb, grilled or roasted and seasoned generously with Mediterranean herbs. Unoaked red Rioja wines (joven) made from Tempranillo, Garnacha or Graciano can also offer lighter and juicier styles for the warmer days. Finally, look out for the grape Mencia from northwest Spain. Perfumed, spicy and elegant this is another versatile summer charmer.

Light and cool – don’t be afraid to chill your red wines! 15-17°C for the summer months is what I would suggest.

White wine recommendations:

Grüner Veltliner, Terrassen, Brundlmayer, Kamptal, 2018, biodynamic, €25; www.greenacres.ie. 

Bourgogne Aligoté, Domaine Goisot, 2018, biodynamic, €25; www.syps.com.

Rose wine recommendations:

Languedoc, Gérard Bertrand, Côte des Roses, 2020, €18.95; www.obrienswine.ie

Rioja Rosado, Izadi, Larossa, 2018, €18.95; www.thecorkscrew.com;  www.clontarfwines.ie.

Red wine recommendations:

Etna Rosso, Paolo Caciorgna Etna Rosso Guardoilvento, 2017, €28.95, at Mitchell & Son at Avoca stores; www.mitchellandson.com.

Ribeira Sacra, Mencia, Guimaro, Pedro Rodriguez, 2018, organic, €19.95; www.baggotstreetwines.ie;  www.greenmanwines.ie.