Penny McCormick seeks out the best spots to stay and shop in the Scottish capital …
Gleneagles Townhouse
This is described as the cheeky younger sister of the iconic Gleneagles Hotel. It is set within the historic former Bank of Scotland headquarters – there’s a superb basement spa located in The Strong Rooms, the bank’s original vault. Having had a tour of this stylish 33-bedroom hotel, I can see why it has many repeat guests. The hotel is home to a lively members’ club featuring a year-round calendar of cultural events and experiences. The art collection is impressive (and ever-changing) and celebrates female artists. As for dining, even if you don’t stay, do dine in The Spence – an airy, social space offering brasserie-dining, from Bloody Mary breakfasts all the way through to dynamic dinners. For the perfect spot to watch the sun set and see the city lights sparkle, both members and hotel guests can enjoy Lamplighters, an impressive rooftop bar with views across the city’s medieval Old Town and Georgian New Town. www.gleneagles.com/townhouse
The Roseate
The Roseate is handy to Edinburgh Airport and is in the city’s elegant West Coates residential district. The hotel comprises a dreamy pair of Victorian villas which are intimate and quirky. I loved its stunning gallery walls, ultra-chic bar (featuring their own house gin), and plush bedrooms which are peaceful (some have copper bathtubs) and are decorated in heritage tweeds. I guarantee you’ll fall in love with the hotel’s signature scent, Noble Isle’s Whisky & Water, too. www.hotelsone.com
Fingal
Looking for room with a view? Onboard the Fingal, (Scotland’s only floating hotel), there are 23 cabins which look out onto Edinburgh’s waterfront in the quaint port district of Leith, a foodie’s haven with several Michelin star restaurants. The Fingal serves up some old-world elegance, and celebratory five-course Champagne afternoon teas. After a stay, compare the facilities on board with the former Royal Yacht Britannia, which was a royal residence for more than 40 years. It’s one of Edinburgh’s top visitor attractions and is located in Leith. www.luxuryscotland.co.uk
100 Princess Street
The new sister hotel to Ashford Castle opened earlier this year and has an enviable location near Scotland’s National Portrait Gallery, directly facing Edinburgh Castle. Intimate, authentic and chic the hotel is evocative of a private members’ club and is a celebration of all things Scottish, with tartan galore, and gorgeous murals (by Croxford and Saunders). These celebrate Scottish botanists whose discoveries and contributions to the world of plants, trees, and flowers are depicted throughout. In the 30 rooms, designed by Araminta Campbell, fabrics and artworks mix antique and nautical elements. The Wallace dining room is overseen by chef Willhelm Maree while the bar is the place to indulge in some rare Scottish whiskey. www.100princes-street.com
The Glasshouse
For shopping in the St James Quarter, the 77-room Glasshouse is in an ideal location and boasts more outdoor space than any hotel in Edinburgh, thanks to its variety of balcony rooms and rooftop garden. The terrace is accessible to all guests and gives a panoramic view of the city from above and of the famous Carlton Hill from below. www.marriott.com
The Sheraton Grand Hotel & Spa
Spa sybarites should seek out a luxury room at The Sheraton in the city centre. It’s perfectly poised to offer soothing thermal experiences after a day of exploring – whether climbing up Arthur’s Seat or the New Town. The rooftop hydro pool delivers views across the city, a prime spot in which to soak up the city’s lively atmosphere. www.bookonline.com
Edinburgh shopping tips
My advice: regardless of what you’ve been told, avoid Princes Street, if on a shopping mission. Instead, focus on George Street where you’ll find ME+EM, Mint Velvet, Le Labo, the Scottish Design Exchange, the iconic jewellery store, Hamilton & Inches and so much more.
If planning an indulgent lunch, walk to St Andrew Square in the New Town where you’ll be spoilt for choice (Dishoom, Amarone, Hawksmoor, Gaucho and The Ivy on the Square are popular). I also recommend the fourth floor cafe in Harvey Nichols, where views from its terrace are amazing.
In the afternoon, make a beeline to trendy Stockbridge, where you’ll find Treen. It has a great edit of sustainable fashion brands dedicated to making a positive difference.
While you’re in Stockbridge head to Jorum Studio, an indie fragrance shop I discovered and could have bought the whole range. I picked up Rose Highland as a fragrant reminder of my visit.
For dapper menswear, Dicks and Kestin specialises in timeless garments for men and women; as well as accessories and periodicals.
At Kestin founded by Kestin Hare, pieces are inspired by heritage and homeland, vintage, workwear, military, sport and outdoor.
Frontiers, meanwhile, focuses on hard to find, good quality brands, near William Street in the West End.
Biscuit is another Edinburgh institution for those in the know. It was founded by Amanda Mitchell, a former department store buyer. She stocks a wide-ranging selection of brands, predominantly for women but babies, too.
For more avant-garde designs, try Epitome, a concept store which creates distinctive clothing for the discerning customer. If you prefer vintage shopping, B’s Vintage Market is Scotland’s biggest vintage market. Its autumn event takes place on Sunday September 24 at Blue Drill Hall, 36 Dalmeny Street, with over 20 of the UK’s best vintage traders bringing their best stock from 1920s to 2000, tickets are £2.50. As for fashion exhibitions, worth visiting is the V&A Dundee, a short train ride away from the city, where the exhibition “Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk” is on until January 2025.