My recommendations for crisp whites for fresher weather …
After the rain comes fair weather. We have certainly had our share of storms this year, but now spring is here at last. Almost time to swap umbrellas for sun hats, and those powerful winter reds for fresher, more aromatic whites. It’s the perfect time to explore the stylish and delicious bottles arriving on shelves, ready to awaken our tastebuds and set the tone for a brighter, lighter season in our glasses.
When I think of spring on an aromatic level, I think of floral notes carried on the breeze from neighbouring trees and bushes – magnolia, cherry blossom, crab apple and lilac. There’s also the unmistakable scent of freshly cut grass and damp, newly turned soil. By association, these are the aromas I long to find in my glass at this time of year.
Albariño – or Alvarinho – is the first grape on my list of spring wines. It originates in north-eastern Portugal and just across the border in Galicia, in north-western Spain. Depending on where it’s grown, the age of the vines and the winemaking approach, Albariño can be wonderfully multi-faceted. Styles range from light, fruity and uncomplicated to wines that are layered, textural, mineral and age-worthy.
Personally, I’m drawn to the more mineral, saline-driven expressions rather than the creamier, more tropical styles, but that’s the beauty of Albariño: there truly is a version for every palate. Rías Baixas in Spain and Vinho Verde in Portugal remain its spiritual homes, yet fascinating examples are now emerging from places as diverse as Uruguay, Australia and New Zealand.
Sometimes, the taste of spring is less about a single grape variety and more about a sense of place.
Pinot Blanc is another favourite of mine at this time of year. Known as Weissburgunder in German-speaking countries, it remains, in my view, one of the most underrated white grape varieties. Its style can range from light, crisp and delicately floral to wines that are creamy, nuanced and beautifully mineral – making it something of a chameleon in the glass. It particularly shines in classic regions such as Alsace in France, Burgenland in Austria and Alto Adige in northern Italy.
No spring wine exploration would be complete without Riesling. At its best, this noble grape captures freshness and precision like few others, offering aromas that range from citrus blossom and green apple to white peach and wet stone. Whether dry or gently off-dry – but always racy – Riesling has a remarkable ability to balance vibrant acidity with purity of fruit, making it one of the most food-friendly and refreshing wines to enjoy as the days grow longer. From the steep slopes of Germany and Austria to the sun-bathed vineyards of Alsace, and on to the vibrant expressions emerging from New Zealand and Australia, Riesling remains a timeless companion for the brighter moods of the season.
Sometimes the taste of spring is less about a single grape variety and more about a sense of place – and for me, southern Italy is pure heaven for this style of wine. If you are willing to step off the beaten path and explore the magic of indigenous grapes, it is well worth dipping into the whites of Basilicata, Campania, Sardinia and Sicily.
Varieties such as Malvasia, Moscato, Falanghina, Greco, Catarratto, Vermentino and Carricante open the door to a world of blossom, wild herbs and delicate orchard fruits, often accompanied by that elusive “non se che” of salinity, gentle bitterness and precision that feels unmistakably Italian.
The beauty of spring lies not only in longer, sunnier days but also in the return of colour to our plates.
Many of my favourite ingredients come into their own at this time of year, and these are wines made for the foods that reappear with the season – asparagus and fresh peas, watercress, rhubarb and radishes. Albariño sings with seafood; Pinot Blanc is effortlessly elegant with spring vegetables; Riesling, with its razor-sharp acidity, can handle everything from gently spiced dishes to delicate white fish. Southern Italian whites, meanwhile, seem almost designed for long, leisurely lunches of antipasti and lemon-dressed salads generously seasoned with fresh herbs.
Spring invites us to eat and drink differently – a little lighter, a little brighter, a little more spontaneously. These are wines for open windows, for meals that stretch into the evening, for the simple pleasure of noticing the season changing around us. Take a moment to swirl, to inhale, to taste – and you will find the essence of spring captured perfectly in your glass. @julie_dupouy
SPRING FLING
Alsace, Pinot Blanc “Paar”, Mélanie Pfister, France, €29; www.clontarfwines.ie.
Bianco “Langhe”, Basilicata IGP, Arteteke, Italy, €31; www.sheridanscheesemongers.com.
Falanghina Irpinia “Insania”, Bambinuto, Italy, €26.99; www.greenmanwines.ie.
Riais Baixas, Albariño “Geal”, Lagar da Costa, Spain, €28.99; www.obrienswine.ie.
Riesling “Moutère Old Vine”, Heaphy Estate, Nelson, New Zealand, €30; www.wineonline.ie.
Chenin Blanc “On a Flight of Furious Fancies”, P Angus, Polkadraai Hills, South Africa, €39; www.blackrockcellar.com.
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