It’s often the busiest time of year for chefs and hosts, who strive to keep traditions alive at Christmas. Here’s how they do it …
DONAL SKEHAN, CHEF AND AUTHOR
My wife Sofie is Swedish so we split our time at Christmas between Ireland and Sweden with our two boys. Swedish Christmas kicks off on December 24, with the julbord, a completely OTT spread with pickled herring, homemade crispbread, janssons frestelse (a creamy potato gratin with breadcrumbs and sweet, salty anchovies) and Christmas porridge with cinnamon and almonds. I learned to make gravadlax years ago when Sofie and I worked in a julbord restaurant in Gothenburg. I cure the salmon with a sweet and salty blend spiked with dill and lemon zest, and add grated beetroot for a deep pinky purple hue. I serve it sliced thinly, on crispbread, topped with cucumber pickles and horseradish crème fraîche. @donalskehan
CHARLOTTE KANE, CO-FOUNDER, SCÉAL BAKERY, GREYSTONES
Christmas pudding. A thick slice, pan fried in butter with cold, cold pouring cream straight from the fridge. It’s the contrast of piping hot Christmas pud with ice-cold cream that does it for me. I’ll eat one slice and I’m guaranteed to go back for a second. @charlotte_leonardkane
ERIC MATTHEWS, CHEF AND OWNER, KICKY’S RESTAURANT, DUBLIN
There is a pub called the Moorings in Dungarvan where my wife is from and every St Stephen’s Day we go down and I have a bowl or maybe two of their seafood chowder. It’s accompanied by the most incredible crab claws drenched in garlic butter. I remove the meat and add to the bowl after the chowder is finished, mix with a little bit of mayonnaise and a squeeze of lemon and lash it on top of fantastic soda bread. Rich, creamy and smoky, with a pint of the black stuff, it always ticks my Christmas box. @cheferic_matthews
THEO KIRWAN, AUTHOR OF SALADOLOGY, CO-FOUNDER OF SPROUT
Fish Finger sandwiches! I love spoiling my family at Christmas and cooking extravagant meals but sometimes you can’t beat a fish finger sarnie. Buy a box of your favourite frozen fingers and posh them up with a quick salsa verde and garlic aioli, crisp finely sliced baby gem lettuce and gently toasted soft buns. Fun and yum. @theo_kirwan
KATIE SANDERSON, COOK AND CREATOR OF WHITE MAUSU
I can’t imagine Christmas without making my late granny’s amazing shortbread recipe to keep in a tin for coffee time and hungry little fingers. Homemade jams made during the year – fig and Earl Grey or blackberry and geranium – are a reminder of summer days, and chutneys made from the last tomatoes from the greenhouse. Swimming in the sea and local chili crab claws are non-negotiables for the big day. @katiejsanderson
MARGUERITE KEOGH, HEAD CHEF, THE FIVE FIELDS, LONDON
I’m very lucky to make it home from London for Christmas every year. Once I arrive on Christmas Eve, the tradition is for me to help my mother with the Christmas meal prep (cringey Christmas music while we cook is a must!) We always make a carrot cake to enjoy with a cup of tea a? er Christmas Eve mass. The recipe is so straightforward, it’s easy to make even while we are busy with the rest of Christmas dinner, and who doesn’t like carrot cake? There are always spare carrots lying around at Christmas – clearly not enough snowmen in Ireland! @chefmarguerite
TOM HAYES, CHEF AND OWNER, MOWGLI
Mine is an accidental Christmas tradition that emerged on one of those slow mornings between Christmas and New Year. Take leftover rice pudding and roll it into balls, big enough for two bites. Fry in a pan and toss in cinnamon sugar and serve with a layer of raspberry jam. A dollop of crème fraîche is advised and cup of tea mandatory. @tomhayes_
MAJKEN BECH-BAILEY, FOUNDER, BÆK NON-ALCOHOLIC WINE
My grandmother Greta knew how to make Christmas truly special, and one of my favourite memories is setting the Christmas table with her. She had an entire cupboard of cutlery, glassware and crockery that was only used for Christmas dinner – a deep red tablecloth, porcelain plates with handpainted deer, linen napkins placed between the dinner and starter plate, crystal glasses. She’s the reason I have such a passion for detail. The highlight of Christmas dinner was her sweet pickled plums. After I married an Englishman, I started having turkey for Christmas and pickled plums go really well with turkey. Served with vanilla ice cream, they make an amazing Christmas dessert too. @baekcollection
JESSICA GARLAND-BLAKE, FOUNDER, BASH STUDIOS
Since I was about five, my mum and I have been making orange pomanders together. Yes, your thumbs get a little sore, but they are such a thoughtful gift and look gorgeous hanging from the tree or on the Christmas table. I make Christmas crackers for the table too, with something small inside, like a face mask or crystal. @bash__studios
ANNIE DUNNE, FOUNDER, ACQUERELLO HOME
Acquerello Home Mum’s plum pudding prep is practically sacred. We each take a turn stirring the pudding and making a wish. Even the dogs gather around, hoping a bit of the magical mix might accidentally fall their way. One year, I couldn’t be there for the ritual, so Mum called me up, stirring away while I made my wish silently over the phone – God forbid I might miss out! @acquerello.home
NGOZI ELOBUIKE, FOUNDER, HI SPIRITS WINE CLUB
Growing up Nigerian American, our table was always a mix of cuisines. My sister and I would make soul food – mac and cheese, mashed potatoes, gumbo and stuffi ng – while my mom worked away at jollof, egusi soup and pounded yam. Often we would have a third culture contribution, like my mom’s Filipino co-worker’s pancit recipe. This year, I’ll make plantain cocktails, an homage to a delicious snack throughout Africa, Asia and Latin America. I have been working for months on a new wine. Episteme Cuvée will be ready just in time for the holidays. @hi.spiritswineclub
CLODAGH MCKENNA, CHEF
Clodagh McKenna’s Christmas menu this year includes oldschool chicken liver paté with brandy and thyme, served with Guinness brown bread. But in a break from tradition, her turkey will be wrapped with parma ham and slathered with orange and thyme butter, and served with fluffy orange and rosemary roast potatoes. We’re making her foolproof flourless Spiced Orange Christmas Cake. Find the recipe on www.clodaghmckenna.com