Champagne, fire cooking and a maître d’ who knows exactly what you should be drinking prove it’s worth the drive west …
People have long made the trip to The Twelve Hotel for the food and its new restaurant is giving them every reason to continue doing so. I enjoyed more than a few memorable meals here when the restaurant was in its previous guise, West, so Blackthorn has been on my radar since it opened. We finally pointed the car westwards to see what all the fuss was about.
The Twelve Hotel is familiar territory for many people. Some know it as a handy base when dropping the kids off at the Gaeltacht, others stop here en route to Connemara. But most people come for the food and the rather formidable wine list. While West leaned towards the more formal end of the spectrum, Blackthorn feels noticeably more relaxed. The room has a gentle Scandi influence, clean lines and warm tones, the kind of space that immediately encourages you to settle in and stay a while.
Head chef Nathan Hindmarsh, who joined West a few years back, now firmly has the kitchen as his own domain. Out front, maître d’ extraordinaire Fergal Guiney continues to glide through the room with stealth-like precision, warmth and genuine enthusiasm. A true master of the craft, he greets guests like old friends returning home. The more open layout helps too, and the whole place feels brighter and more welcoming.
In the kitchen, Nathan has clearly put his stamp on things. A shiny Mobrasa grill now sits at the heart of operations, and the menu’s “Land, Fire and Sea” ethos makes a lot of sense once you see it in action. We made one decision very quickly: all wine matters would be left entirely in Fergal’s hands. His knowledge is encyclopaedic and, frankly, it felt like the sensible thing to do. I knew we had made the right call when he reappeared moments later with two glasses of Piper Heidsieck Champagne to accompany our menu browsing.
Alongside came excellent Parker House Rolls, a Malted Kylemore Cheese Scone and a parade of canapes. Cod Roe Croustade with Trout Roe – a playful and better take on a Jammie Dodger with Foie Gras and Sloe Jelly – Oysters with Rhubarb Mignonette, and a featherlight Cheese Fritter with Air Dried Ham. All excellent and were devoured in minutes.
The opening section of the menu had plenty to tempt. Wood-fired Gambas with Iberico Sobrasada, and Barbecue Squab with Foie Gras, Black Garlic and Chilli, among them. Curiosity got the better of me and I felt morally obliged to order the Beef Tartare Cheeseburger. Zero regrets. Classic tartare arrived infused with all the flavours of a slightly briny burger sauce, finished with a generous dusting of cheese. Somehow, it managed to deliver the nostalgic hit of a cheeseburger while retaining the lightness and elegance of tartare. Clever and satisfying.
My dining accomplice opted for Ember Seared Scallops with Roast Chicken, Cornered Leek and Laver, arriving beautifully bronzed on the outside while still sweet and tender within.
For mains, or large plates depending on your interpretation, there was plenty to tempt. Wood Fired Pork Chop with Garlic, Chorizo and Surf Clams, and Barbecue Lamb with Sheep’s Labneh, Olive, Green Sauce and Anchovy both looked particularly persuasive. But I have a weakness when I see Whole Black Sole with Capers and Brown Butter on a menu, and this time was no exception. At €65, and without sides, it did give me a brief moment of pause. Thankfully, the fish arrived perfectly cooked, delicate and nutty with the brown butter, and my financial anxiety quickly faded.
Across the table, the Monkfish Chop with Café de Paris, Brown Shrimp and Sea Spaghetti was something of a revelation. I have never been much of a monkfish enthusiast. The word ‘meaty’ often translates as slightly tough, in my experience. Not here. It was tender, flavourful and excellent. I will likely now avoid monkfish elsewhere entirely in an effort to preserve the memory. Sides of Grilled Pink Fir Potatoes, Grilled Tenderstem Broccoli and Duck Fat Potato Terrine Chips were also very good, and the perfect accompaniment to the buttery fish.
Desserts included a rather glamorous Vanilla Ice Cream with Olive Oil and Beluga Caviar, along with Valrhona Chocolate with Hazelnut, which I now slightly regret not ordering. But Fergal had other ideas, appearing with a swirl of Buttermilk and Gariguette Strawberry Soft Serve, which turned out to be exactly the right note on which to end the meal. Well, that and a recommended glass of chilled Yuzu Sake.
If you needed another reason to detour through Barna, Blackthorn would be a very convincing one. The cooking is confident, the room feels relaxed but elegant, and you’re very much in safe hands. In short, go hungry and trust the wine recommendations.