The evolution of red carpet one-up(wo)manship …
A day before it opened, Cannes Film Festival announced a new dress code banning nudity and voluminous dresses. “For decency reasons, nudity is prohibited on the red carpet, as well as in any other area of the festival. Voluminous outfits, in particular those with a large train, that hinder the proper flow of traffic of guests and complicate seating in the theatre are not permitted.”
Perhaps what’s even more interesting is the suggested dress code, which reads like a hymn sheet of Gallic style. Approved looks, delightfully, include “a long dress, or tuxedo, a little black dress, a cocktail dress, a dark-colored pantsuit, a dressy top with black pants; elegant shoes and sandals with or without a heel”.
As the fashion world reports on the ramifications for the red carpet, one has to be amused. It’s hard not to interpret this as the French taking a stance on the Met Gala-isation of fashion. An attempt to press pause on the circus – and the commercial juggernaut – that is celebrity styling. But its delivery, with such no-nonsense sass, is admirable. This is the resting bitch face of dress codes.
And who can blame them? With each year, events such as the Met Gala become more gargantuan. Such events are not about style and haven’t been for a very long time. Rather, a personal besting, of sorts. More viral moments, more Swarovski crystals, more changes (at last year’s Met, Zendaya had three dresses, prompting fears that she’d sparked a new baseline for outfit quantities).
It’s become normalised to plumb the depths of red carpets like analysts, intellectulising the sartorial choices of A-list actors, pop stars and models alike. (Side note: I use the term ‘choices’ loosely because it was likely due to their stylist and the hierarchy of a design house’s celebrity dressing team.)
A custom piece that demands hundreds of hours of work by petite mains in a couture atelier – and for the wearer to publicly lose over a stone in three weeks – is no longer a special event. In fact, it’s par for the course. In some cases, expected. Why? Have we reached peak red carpet? The real question is, why haven’t we reached this sooner? I for one, can sleep easy without knowing the deeper meaning behind a starlet’s bustier. Just me?
Then, there are the practicalities to consider. The Met Gala is more than a party; this year’s gala broke records by raising over $31 million in funds for The Costume Institute. Equally, red carpet dressing – be it for the Oscars, the Golden Globes or at Cannes – is an ecosystem that employs many people behind the scenes; stylists, make-up artists and content creators (this writer included, by reporting on it).
Of course, 1990s nostalgic influencers will predict a return to Carolyn Bessette minimalism. Think: Uma Thurman in 1993 wearing a simple black suit. The reality will be somewhere in-between. Plus, Heidi Klum already broke the rules.
There will always be appreciation for craftsmanship, a time for beautiful clothes and a want for the much-needed escapism of the red carpet. However, dialling things back – from a consumption point alone – without compromising on the fun of the event … is it that bad? Our Gallic counterparts aren’t courting controversy, they’re simply reading the room. As for the celebrities? Trust me, they’ll be fine.
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