Five fish restaurants lure Ciara McQuillan this month. Which one will you try first? …
Deanes Love Fish, Belfast
The Room A bright and airy space that seats 100, with subtle nautical decor. The glass conservatory-style roof, bright white walls and dining counter makes this city centre space feel coastal.
On The Plate The menu is unfussy, with classics such as Strangford Lough mussels, Portavogie scampi with chips, crab on toast, scallops with tomato risotto and chive oil (and a salt-aged steak for the seafood averse). Vegans and vegetarians are well looked after with their own dedicated menu. Everything is spanking fresh and there is a great selection of wine and cocktails.
Net Gain Veteran restaurauteur Michael Deane operates two other restaurants in Belfast – Deanes Meat Locker, beside Love Fish, and Deanes at Queens in the Queen’s Quarter. Deanes Love Fish, 28- 40 Howard Street, Belfast, 00 44 28 9033 1134; www.michaeldeane.co.uk.
Lir Seafood, Coleraine, Co Derry
The Room I have yet to be lucky enough to experience Lir in person, but I have pored over photos and it appears a visit to this swish architect-designed restaurant on the Coleraine Marina offers diners pretty views over the River Bann (it has a festoon lightstrung shebeen for summer dining).
On The Plate Renowned for their zero waste policy, Lir owners Rebekah and Stevie McCarry are seafood innovators and the menu changes daily, sometimes twice a day. You can opt for the à la carte or the tasting menu. Sample dishes include Hake Kyiv, smoked dogfish tortellini and squid bolognese but it was the recent dish of Greencastle red gurnard with crispy Parmesan gnocchi, sage and green peppercorn sauce that really floated my (imaginary) boat.
Net Gain In the warmer months, Lir Síbín offers a more casual experience with regular music and a street food-inspired menu – monkfish corn dogs and the most photogenic lobster rolls I have ever seen. Lir, Coleraine Marina, Coleraine, 00 44 7828 127739; www.nativeseafood.co.uk.
Cavistons, Glasthule, Co Dublin
The Room On two floors, with herringbone wood floor and marble-topped tables, as well as stools at the front window on the ground floor, which makes solo lunch a very pleasant experience indeed. Tables at the back of the restaurant on the first floor have views of Scotsman’s Bay.
On The Plate Until 6.15pm, two courses will set you back just €35 (three for €42). I chose the daily specials: an unctuous smoked haddock gratin to start, followed by a perfectly cooked Dover sole. The accompanying roasties almost stole the show. Other options on the day were Hake Kyiv with pearl couscous or wild plaice with wild mushroom, spinach and confit potato.
Net Gain If you make the trip to Sandycove to dine, don’t skip a visit to Caviston’s emporium, purveyors of good food since 1947. It’s a veritable Aladdin’s cave of deliciousness and the type of shop I dream about having on my doorstep. Cavistons Seafood Restaurant, 56 Glasthule Road, Sandycove, Co Dublin, 01 280 9245; www.cavistons.com.
Fishy Fishy, Kinsale
The Room Coastal Grandma might have been the look of the last couple of years, but at Martin and Marie Shanahan’s legendary Fishy Fishy, the coastal aesthetic is always in season. It’s a busy spot, as it is one of the few restaurants to open for lunch in the town.
On The Plate Quelle surprise – mostly seafood, in all its glory. (There are other options, by the way). My most recent visit kicked off with a pre-lunch French 75 followed by outstanding local monkfish scampi.
Net Gain Chef Martin Shanahan was head chef at Jim Edwards in Kinsale before opening a fish shop and deli with his wife Marie. After seven years, the dynamic duo went on to open Fishy Fishy. Fishy Fishy, Kinsale, Co Cork, 021 470 0415; www.fishyfishy.ie.
O’Grady’s On The Pier, Barna, Co Galway
The Room O’Grady’s has spectacular views over Galway Bay. The pier-side blue-painted landmark (decor is simple and old-fashioned), is open year round – in winter months, a roaring fire feels cosy.
On The Plate The menu changes daily, depending on the catch of the local boats. There will always be excellent fish and chips, chowder, mussels, scallops and, if you are lucky, spaghetti alle vongole. Comfort food, seafood-style, and it’s very, very good.
Net Gain Lovely Barna, just six miles from the city and at the edge of the Gaeltacht area, offers endless day trip opportunities, rain or shine. If time permits, visit Kylemore Farmhouse Cheese and stock up. O’Grady’s on the Pier, Pier Road, Barna, Co Galway, 091 592 223; www.ogradysonthepier.ie.