In an era when restaurants are opening and closing at an astounding rate, there’s comfort in knowing that establishments like these are not only enduring but, in fact, thriving …
In the words of Shakespeare, “What’s in a name?” The proprietors of Picasso Restaurant in Clontarf were aiming high (and rightly so) when they christened their restaurant many moons ago and it was the right call.
Two things are rare to find in a suburban Dublin restaurant: one that opens every day for a proper lunch (no soup and sandwiches, thanks you) and serves fresh seafood daily.
Located in the coastal suburb of Clontarf in Dublin, Picasso Restaurant offers both, which in itself makes it unique. I’ve been making the pilgrimage here for over 20 years and I’m rarely disappointed because fresh crab claws and prawns are always on the menu. Over that time, the restaurant has moved from its original premises on Vernon Avenue and is now a few doors down in the former Pigeon House. Change is usually good and, while the new premises is roomier and more modern, part of me misses the original space that added to the old school ambiance.
I last visited on a bleak Friday afternoon and the dining room was already half full, which I found quite impressive considering most people were still recuperating from last year’s excess, or braving Veganuary or dry January, neither of which ever tempt me in the slightest. The start of the new year is difficult enough to navigate without adding to the discomfort, so I find that damp January is a natural occurrence anyway.
Lunch is served daily from 12.30pm to 3pm and a two-course menu is €29.95 or €34.95 for three courses. The dishes could easily be described as somewhat retro, which is fine by me as I could happily eat calamari fritti or mozzarella stuffed ‘polpette’ every day.
Main course choices include oven-baked fresh fish of the day with a garlic and white wine sauce, arrosto di maiale slow-roasted pork belly served on a bed of mash, and arborio rice cooked with mixed mushrooms, shallots, cream and parmesan. I opted for the a la carte menu and a starter of granchio al limone (€17.95), a dish of plump crab claws simmered briefly in garlic, white wine and lemon juice. The crab was tender with barely any effort required to release the meat, which can be somewhat resistant in other establishments, while the sauce was viscous enough to coat each claw individually.
Scampi fritti (€34.95) was another generous portion of sweet, plump Dublin Bay prawns coated in breadcrumbs and served with skinny fries, tartare sauce and mixed leaves. While the scampi was excellent, it’s a dish that can become somewhat repetitive after a while, so it’s perfect for sharing. The chips were distinctly average, sadly, as was the tartare sauce (which can make or break a dish like this), but it was worth it for the scampi alone.
Other dishes I enjoyed were the gamberi piccanto (€17.95) – yet more Dublin Bay prawns, this time simmered in lemon, garlic, chilli, white wine and parsley – and the aforementioned risotto ai funghi, which was well received by the fungus lover at the table! We enjoyed a bottle of Umbrian Vermentino (€35) with our meal, although house wines are available by the carafe (€18.95 for 50cl), which is something I’m quite the fan of, especially for value. Two Irish coffees (€8.95) fortified us for the winter air outside, with a vow to return sooner rather than later.
Picasso also run an early bird menu from 3pm to 7pm Monday to Thursday, Fridays from 3pm to 6pm, Saturday from 3pm to 5.30pm and Sunday from 3pm to 6.30pm, with two courses priced at a reasonable €30.95 each, or €35.95 for three.
The conclusion: Picasso is a great neighbourhood restaurant for those who enjoy old school Italian classics and excellent seafood in a buzzy dining room. It’s not exactly reinventing the wheel, but why would it if the formula works? If a wine-fuelled lunch (sans judgement) tickles your fancy, Picasso is the perfect choice. Dinner is pretty good too! www.picassorestaurant.ie
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