“In the past year, vanilla has muscled to the forefront – and in the right hands, has a glorious, sophisticated new charisma,” says our beauty editor…
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It’s sometimes a byword for bland – but in the perfume world, vanilla doesn’t have to mean safe, humdrum or anodyne. And it no longer means sickly sweet, either. For far too long, synthetic vanilla was used as a florid filler – I dreaded spraying those endless celeb scents and underwhelming flankers, with their appalling sweetness. I often had to wash my wrist after trying one, unable to live with it a second longer.
But in the past year, vanilla has muscled to the forefront – and in the right hands, has a glorious, sophisticated new charisma. We’re thinking of Matiere Premiere’s stonking Vanilla Powder, and YSL’s Babycat by master perfumer Dominique Ropion. Vanilla brings a lot to the table, smooth, creamy, balmy, warm, and this year’s spin on vanilla is all about its cultivation and provenance.
Ideally, you want fairly traded Bourbon vanilla from Madagascar, as in fancy Parisian brand Parfums de Marly’s Althaïr eau de parfum (€230 at Brown Thomas); paired with tobacco, praline and leather. It certainly sounds delicious.
And for 2024, labels from Chloé to Burberry (Goddess eau de parfum, €156) are all going big on vanilla. The Estée Lauder brands, from Kilian (Smoking Hot) to Jo Malone London and Tom Ford, are sticking with the theme into 2024, the latter with new Vanilla Sex eau de parfum. I’ve long adored Tom Ford perfumes for their punchy notes and feisty staying power – you always know when someone is wearing one.
For a long time, they were the most exciting scents in town. But they have become incredibly pricey – we’re now talking €255- plus for Private Blend 100ml – and the titles are a bit wearying. I’m more interested in upcoming scents for spring (watch this space) by in? uential perfumers such as Yann Vasnier (who has created stunners for Ford, including 2017’s Vanille Fatal).
Enjoy vanilla in skincare, too; Chanel’s extravagant Sublimage range is powered by vanilla planifolia – and the L’Essence de Teint foundation (not new) is one of the best I’ve ever used.
The Name To Know Lyn Harris
Lyn Harris has long been a scent innovator. Her previous brand was the elegant Miller Harris, and she’s now known as Perfumer H. She’s also the nose behind the gorgeous scent that infuses Sam McKnight’s hair range. Image via @perfumerhlondon
I’m dying to visit her pared-back, coolly modern stores in London and Paris, and smell intriguing scents such as Ink – an early contender for perfume bottle of the year – Leather, Smoke and Rain Cloud.
The discovery set of five (above, £125stg) makes a gorgeous gift. Her scents are set to land at Dublin’s Parfumarija this month. www.perfumerh.com
