Spain’s charismatic capital offers a vibrant, stylish destination for aesthetes …
Elegant boulevards, majestic museums, royal palaces and manicured parks: most people think of Madrid in these terms, yet a clutch of fine dining restaurants, cool hotels and artisan shops has given the city an exhilarating energy. It’s become a vibrant, stylish destination for aesthetes (possibly snatching from Barcelona the status of Spain’s most charismatic city). To prove a point: the Mad Cool Festival from July 10-14 not only brings together different musical genres, it also focuses on art, gastronomy and the environment.
Culture Club
For the culturally curious, ticking off the “big three” is a must do on any visit. Make haste to Museo del Prado where works by Bosch, Titian, El Greco, Rubens, Velazquez and Goya await (the Museum gift shop is worth a mention too!). Contemporary artworks by Miro and Bacon are on display at the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia, where Picasso’s Guernica hangs, while the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum houses Europe’s largest private art collection with works spanning the 13th to 21st centuries.
Less highbrow yet still arty, Las Letras district was once the meeting place for writers, playwrights, poets and actors including Cervantes, Quevedo, Lope de Vega and Tirso de Molina. Stroll along its streets and you’ll see literary quotes inscribed on the pavements. Don’t miss Ranas market on the first Saturday of the month, which often includes special menus in restaurants.
Shopping Central
Leave some space in your luggage! Start on Gran Vía, the most famous avenue in Madrid, where rooftop bars offer plenty of people-watching. (Make a beeline for the flagship Zara store on the Paseo de la Castellana). For trinkets old and new, browse the stalls at the Mercado de Motores.
For designer boutiques, head to the Salamanca district especially Serrano, Ortega y Gasset and Jorge Juan streets. This area is called the “Golden Mile” as ateliers and boutiques selling artisan jewellery and leather goods proliferate.
More fashion-forward is Las Salesas neighbourhood – especially Calle Barquillo, Argensola, Orellana and Fernando VI streets – where emerging designers, florists and concept stores delight. On the first Saturday of every month, the stores organise an open air market called “Salesas Village”.
Other must-dos include the architecturally impressive Mercado de San Miguel, open since 1916 and full of delicatessen stalls. Don’t leave without visiting the Sunday morning El Rastro street market in La Latina barrio, Madrid’s most iconic flea market. There are also plenty of antique and vintage shops in the area.
Worth visiting are Olofane, Portici, Berenice, Casa Josephine, Le Secret and Verdegeban. If you’re more interested in quirky design shops, specialist bookshops and charming cafés, then look for accommodation in Chueca-Malasaña-Fuencarral.
Retiro Park
Out And About
Make a point of visiting Plaza Mayor Square, where you’ll find decorative shop window displays and signs that are over 100 years old. Visitors will find everything from historic apothecaries to famous milliners. Four stores of note include Cocol, located in an old upholstery workshop, selling artisanal homeware; Casa Diego, the place to find colourful handcrafted fans and other genteel accessories; Seseña for authentic Spanish capes (Picasso, Hemingway and Fellini were all devotees); and Antigua Casa Crespo, founded in 1863, that sells alpargatas. The store is packed to the rafters with espadrilles in every conceivable colour and silhouette.
It’s worth remembering that most stores stay open until 10pm, which means that nightlife begins much later too. The university Princesa area is a good starting point as it has plenty of buzzy tapas bars, music venues and nightclubs. La Latina district is also a hot spot for lively bars with flamenco shows.
Where To Stay
Tótem Madrid: Tótem is on a leafy street in the Salamanca area, which is the smartest part of Madrid. The best shops are on the doorstep (on Serrano and Goya streets), and there are lots of bars and restaurants nearby. The Prado and Thyssen-Bornemisza museums are less than 20 minutes’ walk away, while the Retiro Park is also close and provides some shade on steamy days. As for the hotel, it exudes elegance and tranquility; rooms are pared back and guests have the top notch restaurant La Parrilla del Pimiento on site. The hotel’s cocktail bar has a speakeasy vibe where the resident DJ spins everything from bossanova to ragtime tunes. @hoteltotem
Plaza España Skyline
If you want the flexibility of an apartment without any hassle, this is for you. It’s part of the Be Mate apartment offshoot of Room Mate, which has introduced reasonably priced design hotels throughout Spain. The company owns and manages the entire building, where stylish apartments combine Scandi-meets-mid-century design. Many of them have terraces and large floor-to-ceiling windows offering great views. The location, in a quiet residential street just off the the Plaza de España, is also next to the lovely Oeste park and the Gran Vía is only ten minutes away. Visitors can also walk up to the Argüelles neighbourhood, which has all the high street shops without the crowds.
The Pavilions Madrid
This discreet boutique hotel is just off Plaza de Colón in the city centre, a few blocks beyond the main tourist beat. It’s behind the Interior Ministry, meaning there are police on the street corners at all times – making this one of the safest places in the city! The neighbouring streets are full of cafés and restaurants. The hotel has a terrace bar and small garden, plus a mini fitness area with Technogym equipment. Book a rooftop room for great views over the city centre. @thepavilionshotels
Barceló Torre de Madrid
Housed in an iconic concrete tower, Barceló was renovated by Spanish designer Jaime Hayón in his signature bold style with a vibrant colour palette, quirky sculptures and artworks. Enjoy cachaça-based cocktails in the lobby bar, Asian- and Spanish-inspired dishes in its modern restaurant, and Ayurvedic-inspired treatments in the diminutive spa. @barcelotorredemadrid
Bless Hotel Madrid
There’s much to like at Bless in the luxe Salamanca district, including three restaurants: Bless Lively Lounge in the lobby, Picos Pardos on the rooftop and the super-stylish Salvaje (which has outposts all over the world, from Barcelona to Bogotá). After a dip or yoga class on the rooftop, head to concept store Isolée on Calle de Claudio Coello. Some rooms include magnificent terraces, dressing rooms, vintage bathtubs and outdoor hydromassage tubs. @blesshotelmadrid
Where To Dine
Casa Botín: Founded in 1725, it’s considered the oldest restaurant in the world and a benchmark for Madrid’s classic cuisine. @restaurante_botin
Taberna La Carmencita: Located in the trendy Chueca barrio, this is one of the capital’s oldest tabernas serving local cuisine. @tabernalacarmencita
La Terraza del Casino: Occupying the top floor of the Baroque Casino de Madrid, an elite social club built in 1910, the restaurant is bright and unstuffy, while star chef Paco Roncero’s cooking is smart, fresh and experimental. The terrace is breathtaking. @terrazadelcasinomarssala
Lhardy: Founded in 1839, Lhardy is famous for serving traditional Spanish dishes like cocido madrileño, a typical stew-like dish. Its 19th-century décor is full of character and has remained unchanged over the years. @casa_lhardy
Bosco de Lobos: In the stunning courtyard of the College of Architects, an impressive building made of cubic shapes, Bosco de Lobos offers great Italian cuisine. @boscodelobos_grupotragaluz
Celso y Manolo: Located in the lively barrio of Chueca, they serve top quality Spanish food in a relaxed and stylish setting. It’s also a great place for drinks. @celsoymanolo
El Landó: This classic restaurant offers a culinary journey through traditional Spanish cuisine, showcasing locally sourced ingredients in a cosy atmosphere. @landorestaurante
SEE MORE: An Insider’s Guide To Madrid
