The big build up to Christmas Day and the utter relaxedness afterwards – these are the moments Kitty Coles loves …
Every year, a few weeks before Christmas, my dad and I pull out his stack of cookbooks with a pen and paper to plan all the dishes we want to make. We’re a family with, quite literally, too many cooks in the kitchen, which can often turn competitive. Dad always takes charge of the turkey, Mum the ham and Christmas Eve meatballs, then I cover desserts and sides. Over the weeks leading up to the big day, the menu evolves through texts and screenshots: “What if we made a frangipane tart with mincemeat and apples?” or “I’ll make profiteroles!”
Trying to get ahead on my section, I search “profiterole recipe”. Within seconds, thousands of results pop up and I’m instantly overwhelmed. How are we supposed to know which recipes to trust with so many supposed expert cooks flooding the internet? Five minutes on social media, and I see endless variations on the same theme: “Click here for the best-ever roast potatoes.” “Link in bio for life-changing Brussels sprouts.” “Recipe for outrageously delicious carrots.” It’s all a bit much.
Growing up, we had our go-to chefs and cookbooks for trusted Christmas recipes: Nigella Lawson’s Coca-Cola ham or Jamie Oliver’s gravy. The tried and tested roast potato method: Boil the potatoes until almost tender, let them steam in a colander for ten minutes, then toss them in hot oil at 220°C with a bit of salt and pepper. Roast until golden, turning occasionally for an even crisp.
We all have our traditions, and that’s what makes each Christmas unique. If you don’t enjoy cooking, skip the extras and keep it simple …
Is it time to go back to the old reliables, instead of spending the lead-up to the festive season in a rabbit hole of Instagram saves and recommended TikTok videos?
At the end of the day, it’s not all about the food itself. Who cares if you buy frozen roast potatoes or a pre-cooked ham? We all have our traditions, and that’s what makes each Christmas unique. If you don’t enjoy cooking, skip the extras, stick to what you know, and keep it simple.
I often enjoy the weeks leading up to Christmas, and the slower days after it, more than the day itself. Unlike my parents, who often wished away December due to endless shifts at the restaurant. Growing up, my sisters and I would pitch in, polishing lipstick-stained glasses and handling the Christmas rush. Christmas Eve was always hectic, with extended family turning up to the house – 20-plus cousins, aunts and uncles, often nearly 50 in total. I look back and wonder how they managed a packed restaurant alongside a full house. It took a lot of lists, borrowed plates, trays of bubbling dauphinoise, giant hams, mountains of meringues, and three (mostly) willing daughters. Not to mention, the pot washer at the restaurant!
I also get more excited about the food before and after Christmas Day, maybe because I have more choice of what to cook rather than having to make the same thing every year. I realise I’m probably in the minority, but I also love to cook for groups of six or more. The idea of full platters and the excuse to make big cakes and pies actually excites me. Throughout my 20s, I spent December hosting in a series of tiny London rentals, where I’d just about manage to squeeze a table between the sofa and TV. Low lighting, a few Christmas lights and just the right amount of candles, the menu always something like braised short ribs served with polenta and fennel salads. Or thick pork chops fried with sage and garlic, paired with a mound of shaved Brussels sprout remoulade. Dessert was caramelised apples spooned onto rice pudding, alongside an almond sponge, or with cream. I like dishes that scale up or down easily, giving me just enough time to listen to Stanley Tucci’s audiobook while I prep. Make sure to sign up to my newsletter, THE GLOSS TABLE with Kitty Coles, where I’ll be sharing recipes for hosting big groups over the holidays.
In the days after Christmas, most of us have a turkey carcass, and I’m here to remind you to make stock. You’ve likely got time to spare, and a post- Christmas soup tastes infinitely better with homemade stock. Get the bones in a pot with any spare veg, cover with water, and let it bubble away on the hob for anywhere from two to six hours. I sometimes add star anise, cinnamon, ginger, and garlic to make a Vietnamese-style broth, perfect for serving with shredded turkey, noodles, and veg.
Food tends to become a little simpler after Christmas. There are DIY sandwich stations with leftover meats, trays filled with every condiment from the fridge door, and mix-and-match plates of cheese, leftover meats, and cold stuffing to pick at between films. My mum takes the leftover ham and mixes it with mashed potatoes, parsley, and any extra veg she has – spring onions, chives, or softened leeks – then binds it all together with an egg and a bit of béchamel sauce. She coats each ball in flour, then egg, then breadcrumbs, and fries until golden before serving with a ladleful of parsley sauce. Forget the roast potatoes and mince pies; this is what I count down to each year. @kittycoles