Why you need to know about the five-star lakeside sauna experience at Ballynahinch Castle …
Saunas are seriously hot at the moment, all around Ireland. And the lakeside hot boxes at Ballynahinch Castle offer an especially unique five-star experience. Here’s why we recommend you head here to break a sweat …
Why visit: Ballynahinch has long been a jewel in Connemara’s crown, with its commanding position between mountains and river, immaculate walled garden and compelling range of activities, from fishing to strolling around the lake – not to mention the proximity to some of Europe’s best beaches, such as crystalline Dog’s Bay.
What’s new: There’s a new terrace area overlooking the trees, which makes a comfortable spot for a pre-dinner drink, or al-fresco lunch. And since last autumn, there’s been another reason to make the trip over to the Castle and its extensive estate of over 700 acres: a sauna experience by the lake.
The experience: Wearing your swim gear and towelling robe, gather a basket filled with towels, water and a map, and jump into a golf buggy. The journey, careering your way through the trees, is almost as fun as the destination. Two private circular wooden saunas are separated by “stepping stones” made of wood (gathered from the many trees that fell during the heavy storms earlier this year – the Estate tragically lost over 200 ancient trees, some more than 250 years old, and the clear-up job is enormous). You get an hour with the sauna to yourself (€60 for two, €10 for each additional).
The time is spent alternating between the hot box, with its beautiful views across the lake to the mountains beyond, and plunging into the glass-like lake itself. This is the ultimate experience in “forest bathing”, and is totally exhilarating. There’s also a pull-bucket of cold water, which takes a bit of nerve and certainly gets the circulation going. It’s all picturesque, healthy fun that leaves you invigorated and glowing.
The food: There’s been a lot of buzz around chef Danni Barry’s food at Ballynahinch. Justified? Yes, absolutely. Having won a Michelin Star at Eipic in Belfast, Barry is now devising gorgeous seasonal menus at Ballynahinch that have a resounding clarity. Each dish is dazzlingly fresh, light and beautifully presented. Think Cleggan crab, Killary Fjord mussels and Dooncastle oysters, accompanied by the freshest vegetables, including local asparagus; our sea bass with caramalised celeriac and truffle butter was divine. The hotel’s walled garden supplies a large amount of the veg and herbs. In the evening, the candlelit room feels romantic but never stiffly formal, thanks to the young, on the ball staff, including Luciano, originally from Catania in Sicily, who made everyone feel welcome.
There’s a more low-key alternative, too. The Fisherman’s Pub is a dark and cosy spot, lit up by lively staff who want you to have fun. Sampling barman David’s cocktail-making skills is a must, as are the vast bowls of Killary mussels and hearty fish and chips. At the weekend there’s often music, and while this clearly appeals to the many visiting Americans, the great vibe equally delights the hotel’s many Irish guests.
Don’t miss: We highly recommend the walking tour of the Estate, which takes in a loop of the grounds, around to the historic railway line and signal box and back through the walled garden, with its recently installed cafe with outdoor seating overlooking a Tracey Emin sculpture. Eoghan is an incredibly knowledgeable and entertaining guide, with a real passion for an understanding of the Estate’s history, flora and fauna, and colourful tales about characters such as Grace O’Malley, and the generous and flamboyant Indian prince who owned the house from 1924. Our entire group was charmed. There’s a boot room full of wellies and waterproof jackets to borrow.
The stays: For an all-encompassing escape, Ballynahinch Castle’s “Stillness and Sanctuary” overnight package combines the sauna experience with an overnight stay and dinner at the Owenmore Restaurant or Fisherman’s Pub, starting from €273 per person. Overnight stays at the hotel start from €315 per room. If you’re lucky enough to have a Blue Book voucher knocking around, there are few better ways to spend it …
The lowdown: Honestly, it’s hard to discuss a stay here without resorting to a billion superlatives. The hotel feels slickly run, without ever feeling slick, and has a warmth far beyond that of the roaring fires. The lakeside rooms are comfortable and peaceful. We’d love to see an alternative to the mini plastic bottles in the bathroom, so prevalent in hotels – it’s great to have an Irish brand (Voya), but there must be greener options.
While you’re there … Stop at Sullivan’s grocers in Oughterard on the way over and back for good coffee and pastries plus local veg, honey and much more. Find local treasures, Inis Meain knitwear, books and Connemara marble at Joyce’s Craftshop in Recess. If you’ve time to head to The Misunderstood Heron – now relocated as a pop-up at P. Dan’s Pub at Killadoon, Co Mayo, 6km outside Louisburgh, having had to close at their beloved scenic spot overlooking Killary Fjord. Go and support it: the food is always worth the drive.
Need to know: Visit www.ballynahinch-castle.com to book.
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