Take a trip out west …
INIS MÓR
A visit to Inis Mór, the largest of the three Aran Islands, is a must – a chance to wander and wonder. The island can be reached via regular sailings with Aran Island Ferries, from Rossaveel or Galway City, from €34. An overnight stay is optional; the Aran Islands Hotel has comfortable, no-frills sea view cabin rooms, from €190. @aranislandshotel
Aran Islands Glamping also has pods overlooking the sea at Frenchman’s Beach. @aranglamping
Non-negotiable is a tour of the island (I took a gentle, informative carriage ride with islander Thomas Faherty) taking in its dramatic Dún Aonghasa cliffs, Blue Flag beaches and historical sites (among them The Seven Churches and Poll na bPéist wormhole). Yoga followed by a dip at Cill Rónáin Beach and some cycling will work up an appetite.
Stop for a coffee at the Seal Colony Café (@sealcolonycafe) – low tide is the best time to see the seals – feast on crab and lobster rolls from one of the Aran Seafood Café trucks (@aranislandseafoods), run by local fisherman Bertie Donohue and his wife Niamh, or book dinner at Joe Watty’s Bar and Restaurant. @joewattys
CONNEMARA MAINLAND
Back on the mainland, 60km away in Leenane, Delphi Lodge in the mountainous Delphi Valley exudes rustic luxury. Guided walks, fishing and lake excursions, plus dining on local game and seafood, are all part of its half-board stays, from €345. @delphilodgeireland
At Fernwood Farm in Clifden, guests can stay in treehouse domes, bothies or stilt houses. These stylish perches provide scope for reliving childhood fantasies and soaking up the stunning scenery. From €220. @fernwood_farm
INISHBOFIN
From there, island hop to Inishbofin (from Cleggan pier) and explore its distinctly Caribbean white sandy beaches and turquoise waters. You’re likely to hear some corncrakes – there are several pairs on the island. Book a room at the family-owned Murray’s Doonmore Hotel which has just been renovated. Enjoy fresh crab claws while listening to local musicians who play into the wee hours. @doonmore_hotel
The Beach Day’s Bar, by the harbour, is a local hub for visiting yachts and ribs and is a great spot for watching the comings and goings of the islanders, and for great views of Cromwell’s Fort.
Put Sauna Bó Finne on your bucket list, where private saunas on the beach have views of the Twelve Bens and Croagh Patrick. From €20. @saunabofinne
Don’t leave without browsing the Studio Shop, where artist Lol McClean’s seaweed prints and ceramics provide mementos of happy days well spent. @inishbofinartisan
