India has always fascinated designers and intrepid travellers who are seduced by its palaces and sartorial inspiration. Here’s where to stay …
Silk dresses, jewel-toned kaftans and embroidered jackets mesmerised the frow at Dior’s pre-fall 2023 show held at the Gateway of India, Mumbai earlier this year. It was the culmination of a long-held dream for Dior’s creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, and her collection was a contemporary take on the traditional Indian sari, which also served as an essential reference for Christian Dior’s designs, especially its draping techniques. When Dior launched his “Corolle” line in 1947 (immediately dubbed “The New Look”) many of the ensembles were also given Indian names including the Benaras, Bengale and Pondichery.
Chiuri, who has always been mindful of fashion history as a legacy for the future, follows other designers who have paid homage to India’s sartorial legacy. Schiaparelli showed vibrant silk chiffon saris in 1935, including her celebrated “shocking pink” – the colour once dubbed “the navy blue of India” by Vogue editor Diana Vreeland.
Coco Chanel, who was introduced to Indian myths and texts by her lover Boy Capel, showed a sari drape in her spring/summer 1939 collection, accessorised by costume jewellery inspired by opulent pieces worn by Indian maharajas. Yves Saint Laurent’s very first collection in 1962 featured slim-fitting raja jackets and turban-inspired hats; later his Haute Couture spring/summer 1982 collection would be inspired by his Indian model muse Kirat Young.
Alexander McQueen’s notable autumn/winter 2008 collection “The Girl Who Lived in the Tree”, referencing the twilight years of the British Raj, was the result of a month spent in India with his friend and collaborator the jeweller Shaun Leane. Karl Lagerfeld’s stunning Chanel pre-fall 2012 collection was known as the Bombay-Paris Collection. This featured Nehru-collared dresses with embroidered hems, brocade tunics worn over lamé leggings and signature tweed jackets embellished with pearls and crystals.
More recently, Giorgio Armani, Prabal Gurung and Christian Louboutin have all tapped Indian culture, patterns and styles in their designs. As these designers have proved, any visit to the continent not only provides sartorial inspiration but also vibrant visual memories that leave a profound impact.
Here’s where to stay …
Villa Palladio, Jaipur
This nine-room boutique hotel is 15km outside Jaipur and, since opening late last year, has generated a real buzz about the region, due to its magical setting and Wes Anderson-style interiors. It is set on three acres of land, surrounded by the peacock-strewn lawns of Narain Niwas Palace. Originally built in the 1980s as a traditional Rajasthani haveli, it was renovated by acclaimed design duo Barbara Miolini and Marie-Anne Oudejans. Miolini explained in Architectural Digest, “Villa Palladio is about play and delight.” The result is a whimsical mix of Italian, Indian and Chinese influences. The predominant colour scheme of each space and room is red, in every nuance from Ferrari to tomato, which contrasts with the stark white architecture. If there is an uptick in red decor schemes, this hotel is surely responsible. Former Harper’s Bazaar editor Diana Vreeland would approve – she spent her life pursuing the perfect red. www.villa-palladio-jaipur.com
The Johri, Jaipur
This decadent boutique hotel beside the Johri bazaar in the Old Town of Jaipur is a delight for the senses and includes an interior courtyard, lounging areas on all floors, a jewellery studio, spa and private temple dedicated to the Lord Ganesha. There are five suites, each named after a gem, decorated by Naina Shah, a New York-based couture embroiderer who has embellished pieces for brands such as Gucci and Alexander McQueen. Above is the Manek Suite room – the name translates as ruby – decorated in soft Jaipur pink stone and painted arches with handprinted floral murals and intricate latticework screens. The hotel has a hip vegetarian restaurant and a guests-only bar as well as a roof terrace which overlooks the city. www.thejohrijaipur.com
SUJÁN The Serai, Jaisalmer
Located in one of the lesser known regions of Rajasthan, SUJÁN The Serai is a luxurious tented haven in the desert (which can be reached via SpiceJet, which runs a daily flight). The camp comprises 21 luxury tents, including 14 tented suites, six luxury suites and one Royal Tented Suite. The luxury suites have their own private walled gardens and sunken, heated plunge pools. For those who wish to explore Jaisalmer’s golden fortress, 45 minutes’ drive away, this is the perfect base. Meanwhile at the camp, camel safaris, desert drives, and sundowners on the sand dunes can be arranged. Other experiences include bird walks, cooking classes and craft afternoons (pottery, weaving and woodwork). Most memorable (and mindful) perhaps are evenings spent under the desert sky enjoying melodies from local musicians. www.thesujanlife.com