Domini Kemp maps out how to “do” Paris properly when travelling with a teen …
“Cultural things for teens + Paris” searches illicit grumbles and yawns unless you have a sport-Billy, culture-vulture child who can’t wait to traipse around the Louvre or Catacombs. Equally, you feel you can’t go to Paris and just give in to an Emily in Paris tour. I stupidly looked up the “Goop” travel guide for Paris and nearly fell off my chair imagining the cost of the suggested itineraries, which included a day-trip to the Guerlain spa.
Most grown-ups are happy to just wander the streets and gawp at everything around them, loll around a museum or two, have a glass of wine in the afternoon and watch the world go by. Teenage girls have Sephora and Brandy Melville on their list. Lunch in itsu will do them nicely. A happy medium had to be sought.
Three nights was the perfect amount of time to save your wallet but also to fall in love with Paris. Screens are such a depressing lure when you’re in such a stunning city, so one of the most gratifying things was seeing the phone ignored and the wonder of this spectacular city take over. We had a loose itinerary but had decided that two things were on our wish list; a trip to the Dior Museum and also a perfume-making class. Other than that, we planned to take in a bit of culture, a little retail therapy but mainly some time to wander and to take in the wonder of Paris.
Restaurants are always high on my agenda and I am lucky that both my children are equally in love with great food. Our first night was spent in the wonderful Le Chardenoux; one of several restaurants by French chef, Cyril Lignanc, who seems to be a telly-chef fondly regarded in France, unlike many celeb-chefs who don the screens. Le Chardenoux is absolutely stunning, nicely located in the Marais, with many accessible dishes (the most divine hamburger and lobster roll) but with lots to keep all generations happy; squid fritters, crab galette, langoustine ravioli, plus beautiful cocktails, mocktails and wines by the glass. Service was warm and professional.
Booking ahead for museum tickets and other attractions is well worth it, but you can certainly wing it in the quieter months. The Dior exhibit at La Galerie Dior is one of the most exquisitely curated exhibits I have ever visited; an incredible explosion of couture and craftmanship. It’s relatively short and sweet but, before you leave, I would highly recommend popping up to the Dior café for a cool drink – it’s equally gorgeous and oh so elegant.
The magnificent Dior exhibit and café
The perfume-making classes seemed a little gimmicky but we tootled off – first wandering around the base of the Eiffel tower, which really is so impressive when wandering up close, so we didn’t feel the need to schlep up to the top. There’s also a perfect little pit-stop café near the Eiffel Tower, which is fine for a quick bite and very Instagram-able.
We walked down the Seine, then took a leisurely stroll through the Jardins des Tuileries, where we just kept walking up to Maison Galimard, which was easy to book and costs about €80 each for a 1-2 hour class, plus your own personal creation to take home. They talk you through the basics and you sit at your own desk for two, while you follow their advice to build your own scent. It was relaxed and a bit of fun – I still have my little bottle and actually quite like it! If your daughter is into perfume and make-up, I think you’ll both enjoy this, as long as you don’t go hungry, thirsty or tired! Same approach as going to a museum …
My final recommendation for dinner was the wonderful Altro Frenchie, which is almost like an “Etto” in Paris. We loved sitting in the window seat watching all the cool kids walking down the street, while the cheese shop pulled its shutters and served final customers. People breezed in and out, having a glass of wine or going full steakdinner like we did. Again, warm, friendly and assured service in this wonderful corner of Paris.