Where to stay, eat and go in the Tuscan city …
The best-known Tuscan cities such as Florence and Siena are mobbed during peak season. But smaller places like medieval gem Lucca, about 30 minutes’ drive from Pisa airport, offer much of the appeal without the hordes.
I discovered it via its summer festival, an annual event that sees Lucca hosting a broad range of music acts, from the Pet Shop Boys to Alanis Morissette. The small stage in Piazza Napoleone offers an intimate way to experience music that couldn’t be more different to the sweaty jostle of the 3Arena in Dublin. Seeing Nick Cave at a piano, accompanied by Colin Greenwood from Radiohead on bass, was an intoxicating experience. Keep a lookout for next year’s line-up online.
Compact and atmospheric, surrounded by amazingly well-preserved Renaissance city walls, Lucca is very much a cycling city, and has a calm, laidback feel. The beautiful Piazza Amfiteatro, a circular plaza built on the footprint of the city’s original amphitheatre, is worth a look, though the restaurants there are much more touristy.
Where to stay: If you’re visiting in the height of summer, it helps to have somewhere to cool down. Family-run Villa Corte Degli Dei, which has a pool and is just a 15-minute walk from the centre of Lucca, is very friendly, clean and relaxed, with a perfect pool area and sun loungers to relax. Try the soft, sweet apricot cake and sweet croissants for breakfast.
Where to eat: For lunch, In Pasta is a popular choice, serving a small number of very fresh pasta dishes, changing daily, as well as salads. The best food I had was at Gioliola (from €7-€15 each), from cloud-light bao with calamari to freshly made Chinese dumplings, arepas with seared tuna, and the most incredible bread, followed by an ultra–creamy tiramisu. This low-key, very informal spot is in a quiet spot away from the main drag, and the chefs here are coming up with the most exciting food in town. Gioliola is sister restaurant to Giglio, a Michelin-star spot on the square – so when the concerts are on, you’ll have a ringside seat to hear the music, too.
Where to have coffee: It’s hard to have a bad coffee here. And you’re looking at €3 for a cappuccino (table seating), and less if you stand at the bar. Pinelli is a traditional favourite, with an excellent range of pastries and cakes, and coveted shady seats beside the bookshop. I loved Caffè Santa Zita, an elegant spot by the Basilica di S Frediano, with its speciality cakes and biscuits, including mini doughnuts oozing with pistachio cream. Step back in time inside, where a series of atmospheric salons give way to a secluded oasis of a garden at the back.
Where to people-watch: The square by the birthplace of Puccini, Piazza Citadella, has a great bar serving iced Aperols, and Caffè Manon Lescaut, renowned for its excellent breakfasts. Turandot caffè on Piazza San Michele is a friendly spot at night; everyone congregates and chats here on cooler evenings.
What to do: Walk or cycle round the city walls in the early morning (it’s nearly 5km round), or on a cooler day, for a different view of the town. There are trains and buses to Florence, which is about 80k away, and nearby Pisa, for day trips. The outdoor cinema (until September 7) is worth a trip, too. Lucca’s antiques market takes place throughout the year.
