There is a scene in the classic musical the Umbrellas of Cherbourg where Catherine Deneuve walks around her seaside town with a black bow tied in her hair and a simple beige trench coat. Although it was made in 1965, it looks as relevant in 2023. That’s the thing about trench coats: they’ve meticulously maintained their appeal for decades. And as much as fashion loves to dole out the ‘classic’ moniker, in this case it genuinely applies.

If you’re looking to invest in a trench coat now, the key thing to remember is length. Namely, longer is better. Traditional, shorter lengths have a corporate air to them which, unless you want one for the office, is best avoided. That is, unless, you are going for this season’s ultra short trenches which crop a the waist. (See this one by BA&SH which is a favourite.) Otherwise, a ballet length that sits anywhere between mid-calf and above the ankle is shorthand for a very modern kind of look.

Today’s trenches naturally look oversized, but beware they don’t go too big. Dramatic styles can often come with long length sleeves and awkward cuffs, which can leave you looking a bit drowned out. Make sure the fit is good on the shoulder, too, particularly with the XL raglan sleeves that abound right now. 

Thankfully, trench coats are expanding beyond the safety of beiges and khakis. Many labels are updating to a leatherette or vinyl finish (see Swedish tastemaker Fanny Ekstrand’s Stand Studio trench coat in olive, pictured above) or go for an updated take on a timeless classic with this trench that’s a collaboration between Barbour and ASOS Exclusive – we love the printed collar and cuffs.

Main image: Instagram @fannyekstrand.