Holiday Reflections: Café Culture in a French Village - The Gloss Magazine

Holiday Reflections: Café Culture in a French Village

We have all loved exploring further afield this summer, rediscovering and observing life in villages across France, Spain, Italy, Greece and elsewhere. Lessons are to be learned from village life abroad. The most important? When morning comes, slow down and smell the coffee … If you would like to share a tale from your holiday, email letters@thegloss.ie

By Siobhan Ryan

Mornings in Provence start early. I usually get up at 7am, woken by my Golden Retriever, who nudges me gently to remind me it’s time for his morning walk in the woods. The rest of the house slumbers, enjoying the cool reprieve of the morning before the searing heat of the day. The lure of Provence means many house guests. I love the conviviality but the early mornings are mine and mine alone. After walking the dog, my second and most important ritual is to head to my local village for my morning coffee, with the promise of fresh bread and croissants for my guests on my return.

I could make a perfectly lovely coffee at home but French café culture delivers an experience that simply cannot be missed and to fully appreciate it, it is best experienced alone.

The tables in a French café are small, with chairs facing outwards because café culture is all about observation rather than conversation. Those enjoying their coffee at around 8am are usually locals, flicking through a copy of La Provence, while also keeping a keen eye on passers-by. Ordering a coffee here is a simple affair – there are only two options. Un café (small, strong coffee) or un café créme/au lait. No café will countenance a coffee to go, despite the appeals from unsuspecting tourists. The closest I have seen is when the owner of the local épicerie drives by and is handed a tiny coffee cup through the window of his van, which he will drive by later with and return it to the waiter, with a cheery salute.

I am lucky enough to have lived here for a full two years some years ago, so I know many of the locals, and we often meet while enjoying our morning coffee. Greetings are an important part of life and kissing both cheeks is mandatory for close friends, so there can be quite a lot of up-and-down, off your seat. Pleasantries are exchanged, and little bit of gossip; you would be surprised what goes on in a small French village! I use the time over coffee to plan the menu for the day too. It is not a challenge, given the amazing array of fruits and vegetables on offer.

Market day in the village is a far more frenetic affair. Calm café culture is replaced by a far more sociable experience. My guests normally join me for market day, with all its sights, scents and sounds. After a brief stroll around the market, we gather at Chez Gaby, my favourite café. Tourists strain impatiently to get the attention of a waiter, only to be disappointed when they are told that a flat white will not be winging its way to them. They are often further perplexed to discover that if they would like a croissant, they can buy one in the bakery next door. We are greeted warmly by Marc, the owner for the last 20 years who, despite the rush, manages a kiss on each cheek. French café culture is to be savoured. If you can’t give it the time it deserves then probably best to skip it.

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