Burgundy is among the most coveted wine regions in the world. It stretches from Chablis in the north all the way to Macon in the south and is divided into over 100 AOCs (Appellations d’Origine Controlée). While its vineyards date back to Roman times, it was the Cistercian monks of the Middle Ages who refined Burgundy’s art of viticulture, laying the foundation for the region’s modern reputation. Over the past century, Burgundy’s standing and its ability to produce truly exceptional wines have continued to rise.
Today, however, this star status comes at a cost. Burgundy wines are becoming increasingly expensive, and it is getting harder to find bottles that fit within a reasonable budget. The rising cost of Burgundy wines can be attributed to several factors. First, the region is relatively small. Despite its global fame, Burgundy’s 30,000 hectares of vineyards account for just three per cent of France’s total wine production. It is a classic case of quality over quantity.
Additionally, growing demand for its wines, particularly from Asia and America, is pushing prices higher. Finally, the increasingly unpredictable and extreme climatic conditions of recent years have resulted in smaller harvests.
Meursault, Gevrey-Chambertin, and Puligny-Montrachet are some of the superstar names of Burgundy, but they are not the only players. Thankfully, the region boasts a wealth of lesser-known appellations that offer authenticity and charm at more reasonable prices. These wines tend to be, though not always, a bit simpler and more accessible, making them ideal options for your upcoming summer gatherings.
First, we have Northern Burgundy and the Yonne department, home to appellations such as Petit Chablis, Saint-Bris, Cotes d’Auxerre, and Bourgogne Épineuil. Petit Chablis, located on the outer slopes surrounding the core Chablis region, produces crisp, vibrant wines with refreshing aromas of citrus fruits and white flowers. While they may not have the same depth and complexity as the region’s Premier and Grand Cru wines, they are suited to light summer dishes like seafood, fish tartare, tomato and burrata salad, or simply enjoyed as a refreshing aperitif.
A few kilometres away from Chablis, the Bourgogne Épineuil appellation remains a well-kept secret, producing white, rosé and red wines. Here, Pinot Noir expresses itself in a fruity and elegantly light way, with nuances of cherries, raspberries, and subtle spices. These reds can be served slightly chilled to highlight their finesse and refreshing character. They pair beautifully with summer grillades or charcuterie.
Another hidden gem of Northern Burgundy is the AOC Cotes d’Auxerre, which produces both white and red wines. The vineyards lie along the southern slopes of the Yonne River and benefit from a cool climate that is ideal for growing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The white wines are crisp and fresh, while the reds offer a balanced fruit character with subtle mineral and earthy undertones. C?tes d’Auxerre offers excellent value and is an ideal choice for those seeking wines that are both affordable and delicious.
A true unicorn of Burgundy, the Saint-Bris AOC is the only appellation in the region to produce white wines made from Sauvignon Blanc. Saint-Bris wines are expressive, with aromas of citrus, exotic fruits, and herbal nuances. On the palate, they are energetic and mineral, making them ideal for pairing with oysters, shellfish, asparagus, and goats cheese. They offer a refreshing and exciting alternative to the white wines of the Loire Valley, such as Sancerre or Pouilly Fumé.
Created in 2011, Coteaux Bourguignons is another AOC to look out for when it comes to drinkability and value for money. Producers using this appellation have the freedom to blend varieties such as Pinot Noir, Gamay, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc. I particularly enjoy the red wines, which tend to be supple and fruity, combining the elegance and freshness of Pinot Noir with the juiciness and plumpness of Gamay. These wines are best served slightly chilled and are very well suited to barbecue parties and casual outdoor dining.
Last but not least, Bourgogne Aligoté is the real rising star of Burgundy. Historically mixed with creme de cassis to produce the famous Kir cocktail, the Aligoté grape was once used to produce light, rather acidic white wines for early consumption. However, in recent years, quality-driven producers have recognised the grape’s true potential. Aligoté is now considered a little gem in Burgundy’s crown. The best examples of Aligoté combine bright acidity and saline minerality with nuances of fresh hazelnuts and even the scent of summer rain. In their youth, they can be somewhat austere and often benefit from two to three years of bottle ageing to reach their full potential. Bourgogne Aligoté, along with Bouzeron AOC – an appellation dedicated solely to the variety – are excellent options to serve with sushi, oysters, or fish ceviche.
Burgundy is undoubtedly a region of great prestige, but it also offers incredible diversity and hidden treasures. By exploring beyond the famous names, wine lovers can find authentic, characterful bottles that celebrate the region’s tradition without breaking the bank.
Bourgogne Co?tes d’Auxerre Rouge, Corp de Garde, Domaine Goisot, €29.95; www.maccurtainwine.ie.
Bourgogne Epineuil Rouge, Domaine Dominique Gruhier, €38; www.searsons.com.
Coteaux Bourguignon Rouge, Alfred Bichot, €17.99; www.clontarfwines.ie
Petit Chablis, Domaine des Peregrins, €29.95; www.coopers.ie.
Saint Bris, Domaine Bernard Defaix, €28; www.barossawines.ie.
Ve?zelay, ‘Chatelaine’, Domaine de la Cadette, €33.90; www.thenudewineco.ie.