A quickfire guide to five brilliant things to see and do in and around the Croatian city, from the best waterside seafood restaurant to open-air cinemas …
Heading to Dubrovnik this summer? It seems to be popular, with plenty of (three-hour) flights a week from Dublin. The incredibly clear water to swim in, as seen in Conversations with Friends (filmed in Hvar, up the coast), is a huge draw. There are plenty of tourist attractions, from the city itself with its polished marble streets, cable car, boat trips, city wall walk (go at 8am to beat the crowds and the heat), plus Game of Thrones photo ops galore (and feast on a Burger of Shame).
Here are five standout spots that were our favourites this summer, including a beach and restaurant away from the crowds and worth travelling to…
1 The evening treat
There are two outdoor cinemas, one right in the centre of the Old Town (Slavica), the other a 20-minute walk up a hill (Kino Jadran). Be sure to check which one your tickets are for, as it’s not always clear. The walk is well worth it – the setting is sublime. Take a beer, grab a cushion and enjoy the swallows swooping past the screen (and incongruous background music from the bar next door). We sobbed through the Elvis movie here, and it was a dazzling experience. www.kinematografi.org.
2 The beach
There are lots of beaches around the city. But if you have transport (or there are buses), head to Veliki Zal beach. It’s about 45 minutes north of the city. And it’s the kind of perfect spot you find only on the last day of your holiday and curse that you didn’t find earlier. Crystalline turquoise water, beautifully quiet (it’s not easy to access by boat so is mainly visited by families having a local day out), and the ultimate beach bar serving the freshest fish straight from the grill. Caution: several guides recommend Copacabana beach, in Lapad, but only head here if you love incessant music blasting all day and night.
3 The restaurant
The restaurants in central Dubrovnik are pretty much all tourist fare, and pricey too. Head north of the city to Zaton (about 30-40 minutes), a tiny village with swim spots and a couple of great waterside eateries – Orsan does a mean squid ink risotto, while Konoba Ankora is a friendly local, with great coffee and excellent seafood pasta and lemon-flecked ice cream. Also worth eating at is Peco bakery in Cavtat (the other side of Dubrovnik), a sleepy village. Vanilla doughnuts and cherry strudels – say no more.
4 The bar
Tip: follow the sign saying “Cold Drinks With The Most Beautiful View”. We were entirely sceptical, but found that it led to the best bar in Dubrovnik, Buza (“hole in the wall”), which clings on to the cliffs on the south side of the city. Step through the hole in the city wall which opens out on to this bar and you feel you’re discovering the best hidden gem – though you certainly won’t be alone, as it’s hugely popular and has a great buzz. Daredevils dive off the cliffside into the azure water of the Adriatic below, while teens perch on the rocks with their beers. Grab your mini bottle of rosé and settle in.
5 The ice cream
There are plenty of gelato stores in the Old Town. The best (after careful and dedicated research) is Peppino’s – from Hazelnut Piemonte Premium to Pistachio, the flavours and creaminess are sublime. https://peppinosgelato.com.
