A world of possibilities awaits for shoppers this season …
In a season defined by expressive contrasts, where elegance meets edge and tradition clashes with experimentation, for AW25, international designers delivered a mood that feels bold, undone, and unapologetically personal, said the fashion buying team at Brown Thomas, as it presented its autumn-winter edit at The Westbury Hotel in Dublin on September 2.
With custom printed floral carpet, and velvet fringed stools and armchairs flown in from Paris (which will now be placed in the window display in the Grafton Street store), a mood of decadent elegance was revealed as guests awaited the show.
With international designers from Erdem and Prada to Khaite, Givenchy and many more, the new season collections contain multitudes. For Style Editor Aislinn Coffey, seeing Julian Klausner’s debut Dries Van Noten collection was a highlight: “Cut from wispy chiffon, the bottle green check draped maxi skirt and matching blouse was my standout look.” Wear the skirt with the matching blouse or a slouchy knit later in the year. “Also, Khaite’s black asymmetric off-the-shoulder dress is my dream special occasion dress,” says Aislinn. “The perfect mix of classic and avant-garde.”
Chemena Kamali’s latest collection for Chloé opened the show, with a more structured take on the boho look compared to last season. A cropped jacquard jacket was paired with high-waisted tailored trousers and accessorised with a gold chainlink belt, while a cropped leather jacket was styled over a pink silk maxi dress and – blast from the past – Chloe’s Paddington bag. “For me, Chloé’s floor-length, lace-trim silk dress, teamed with a high-shine leather cropped jacket with a faux-fur trim, was the epitome of elevated cool,” says Contributing Editor Sarah Macken. “The Paddington was on the arm of every It girl in the 2000s and has been reissued again this season. The final flourish for the look was the wispy, barely-done hair that spoke to minimal effort glamour that has maximum appeal.”
Blazé Milano.
An exciting new arrival at Brown Thomas this season is Italian label Blazé Milano, known for its exquisite tailoring. A quick vote around THE GLOSS fashion team confirms that the shearling-trimmed suede coat paired with wide-leg blue jeans is all we want to wear once the cold weather hits – and the navy relaxed fit double-breasted suit, with signature Smiley rounded pocket details, is the perfect take on modern tailoring.
Ulla Johnson.
Tying into this season’s Undone Elegance trend, Ulla Johnson’s elegant eveningwear made an impact with a brown sheer gown and gold tweed ankle-length dress. Dries Van Noten embraced mismatched prints in jewel tones, with an abundance of opulent accessories – if you buy one accessory this season, make it a decadent vintage (or vintage-inspired) brooch. Elsewhere, footwear was maximalist! Sacai had furry slip-on shoes. Erdem’s were fringed. Balmain showed OTT over-the-knee zebra print boots.
There were lots of practical trench coats, in multiple styles: Bite Studios was check print and belted, Dries Van Noten’s animal print vinyl brought the luxe factor, Róhe’s leather trench was mahogany brown croc print and oversized with an exaggerated collar, while Loewe showed a chic brown nappa leather jacket, almost like a cropped trench, with wide-leg tailored trousers.
There were classic black coats to suit every style, from Alexander McQueen, Dior (with a ruffled collar detail that trailed down the arm) and Louise Kennedy (with an embroidered collar detail – also spotted in THE GLOSS September issue fashion shoot).
Khaite.
Tailoring has been redefined for AW25 – this season’s suiting is sharper than ever. Slashed blazers at Givenchy, high-voltage colour at Tom Ford, and oversized proportions at Stella McCartney. Victoria Beckham introduced a new blazer silhouette, classic in its essence but with modern dropped lapels, and paired with the brand’s mannish tailored trousers. It’s one you’ll reach for day after day.
More sheer skirts from The Row (styled with sandals – while very chic, brave for an Irish autumn) and the trending red Elodianna red parka jacket. Phoebe Philo’s tailored green coat was smart, worn with a pale green shirt (buttoned all the way to the top) and grey straight-leg trousers. Cecilie Bahnsen’s pretty brown cardi was paired with a voluminous brown skirt and worn with Ganni’s signature chunky knee-high boots.
Erdem.
There was a punkish vibe at Isabel Marant, with bold red leather paired with lace-patterned tights. Elsewhere, leather makes a return with a sophisticated feel. At Khaite and Christopher Esber, a sense of rebellion was softened with a polished edge, while at Erdem the use of leather was refined and ladylike, as seen in an elegant green coat with embroidered flower detail that closed the show. Erdem’s divine evening looks, floral printed coats, skirts and dresses, were finished with brooches and extra-long bows. Read our exclusive interview with designer Erdem Moralioglu in THE GLOSS fashion issue, out September 4 with The Irish Times.
