These are five of my favourite dining experiences of the last year, from fine dining superstars to super casual heroes …
I cherish eating out – it’s my absolute favourite thing to do and I make no apologies for that! As with everything, there are highs and lows, so choosing my top picks was a challenge. I enjoyed these experiences for vastly different reasons, from fine dining to the more casual end of the scene. Each and every one delivered, and made memories that I still think about regularly, so here are my recommendations …
The Morrison Room at Carton House, Co Kildare
This could easily be perceived as just another pretty face given the awe-inspiring architectural detail that surrounds you, but the arrival of chef Adam Nevin has elevated it from the sublime to the extraordinary over the past year. Last year, I had the pleasure of enjoying Adam’s cooking and gorged on stunning canapés, dangerously moreish focaccia, Akami with Gordal olive, red pepper and caviar, monkfish with truffle, black garlic and chicken butter sauce, Achill lamb with lamb fat bread, a perfectly portioned cheese plate, and Valrhona Ivoire with local raspberries and spearmint. And yes, it was all as good as it sounds. www.cartonhouse.com
Patrick Guilbaud, Dublin
It was a lifelong dream of mine to dine at Patrick Guilbaud, a restaurant I grew up with a longing to visit. My parents went on occasion when I was a child (which shows how long he’s been feeding gourmands), so I seethed with envy at not being allowed tag along as I knew I was missing out on something special. I also knew, however, that my day would eventually come and so, in 2024, it did. An excellent French 75 kicked off the celebration, followed by a charming mini baguette with some excellent Isigny butter. We dined on hand-dived scallops with fresh peas, Black sole with razor clams, nori and samphire, beef fillet with roast foie gras and the most famous mashed potato, which could perhaps be better described as whipped thanks to its gloriously rich and creamy texture. What a concoction! As expected, this meal did not disappoint. A buzzing, beautifully designed dining room, tasty cocktails and delicious food made this an evening to remember. Look, mum and dad, I made it there all on my own! www.restaurantpatrickguilbaud.ie
Bresson, Monkstown, Dublin
The menu at Bresson causes me some anxiety. The more I analyse it, the more anxious I become. I WANT EVERYTHING – and there are not many restaurants that I can say that about. A classic French bistro in a seaside Dublin suburb, Bresson is good enough to make me consider moving to Monkstown (if only). All the heavy Gallic hitters are here: French onion soup, foie gras, crab crème brûlée and Coquille St Jacques are just a few of the difficult decisions that needed to be made on our visit. In the end, we decided on the crab and the vol au vent with wild mushroom fricassee, smoked Alsace bacon and crispy egg to start, followed by a classic, chargrilled steak frites with watercress, béarnaise and red wine steak jus and a seafood bouillabaisse. We ended our meal in true French style, sharing a classic crème brûlée and a cheese plate, and some pate de fruit on the side. A classic and uncomplicated meal that I would happily eat every day, and the dining room was a space I could easily while away several hours (which I did). www.bresson.ie
Vaughan’s Anchor Inn, Liscannor, Co Clare
I have previously lauded the superb fresh fish from Vaughan’s in Liscannor, but there is so much more to this kitchen. Don’t get me wrong, the fish and chips are worth visiting for alone, but the seafood tasting menu is an experience. Flaggy Shore oysters, Liscannor Bay lobster boudin with coriander, apple and caviar, Castletownbere scallops with carrot, tandoori, bacon crumb and wild garlic oil, wild turbot and butter poached lobster is the ultimate seafood feast, with an excellent wine list to round off the experience perfectly. As does staying overnight to let the meal digest in total comfort. www.vaughans.ie
Bébé Bob, London
You may have noticed, caviar has made a comeback in the last couple of years and I, for one, applaud the trend. Of course, there are the detractors of the “just add caviar” craze, but making caviar more mainstream and accessible allows us all to add a little luxe into our lives. At Bébé Bob in London’s Soho, it’s all about the chicken, caviar, cocktails and Champagne – the perfect combination. This is where to visit for caviar in all its various shapes and forms, from lemon cream and caviar doughnuts, schnitzel nuggets with caviar, blini with caviar and caviar ice cream, to name a few. Random, but why not? On my recent visit, we kicked off with a smooth -18°c martini to set the scene for an exceptional meal. I opted for an anchovy egg mayonnaise with Dijon mustard and a VSOP prawn cocktail, followed by a Landes chicken with roasted potatoes and a Caesar salad. This is not just any old chicken, it’s the crème de la crème of roast chicken; slow-reared, and corn and milk-fed from Arnaud Tauzin in Gascony, for a firmer texture and richer taste. I’m planning a return this year for a chicken schnitzel with a scoop of caviar. This may be a fad, but I hope it never ends. Bonus points for the staff and uber-glam dining room. www.bebebob.com
Finally, there were numerous memorable meals at FX Buckley’s Ryan’s Parkgate Street, an ocean’s worth of outstanding seafood from Fish Shop and an exquisite meal in Volpe Nera that I won’t forget in a hurry. Roll on 2025 …