The most enticing culinary offerings in counties Galway, Cork, Kerry and Down …
LANDLINE, PARK HOTEL KENMARE, CO KERRY
THE SCOOP: Named after an abstract painting by artist Sean Scully, Landline was designed by Kenmare-born interior designer, Bryan O’Sullivan (of BOS Studio), whose portfolio includes Claridge’s and The Connaught in London, and the café at the Frick Museum in New York. It’s an entirely delicious feast for the eyes.
ON THE PLATE: The food by chef James O’Sullivan is just as considered as the interior – elegant, confident, and delicious. Expect dishes such as local scallops with wild rice, pancetta and squash, and spring pea velouté to start, followed by pan-seared black sole with sauce Grenobloise.
WHAT ELSE? The new(ish) owners at The Park Hotel, Bryan and Tara Meehan, have transformed the property with the addition of their extensive collection of art, and there are now daily art tours at 5pm.
THE FISH BASKET, CLONAKILTY, CO CORK
THE SCOOP: Overlooking Long Strand Beach in Clonakilty, The Fish Basket is the kind of spot you want to gatekeep, but (in good conscience) just can’t. What started as a beachside food truck by Peter and Elaine Shanahan is now a seaside destination restaurant with surf views and a loyal queue of sandy-toed regulars.
ON THE PLATE: This is purist seafood done right. The fish looks and tastes as if it has come straight from the boat, into the fryer and onto your tray. The fish and chips are textbook perfect with crispy batter, flaky fish, served with peas and a dollop of homemade tartare sauce. The fish tacos are zingy, and the open crab sandwich is generous and flavoursome.
WHAT ELSE? Whatever you do, leave room for cake. Elaine’s bakes aren’t just an afterthought; the coffee cake and lemon drizzle are reason enough to visit. Allow time for a walk along Long Strand afterwards.
KOMBU RAMEN AND BAO BAR, GALWAY
THE SCOOP: Galway’s most prolific chef/culinary academic/playwright/painter JP McMahon has swapped tasting menus for teriyaki and tempura with Kombu Ramen and Bao Bar on Druid’s Lane in Galway. Kombu is named after the umami-packed seaweed that forms the backbone of many Japanese broths.
ON THE PLATE: Steaming bowls of ramen along with a selection of teriyakis, tempura, and rice dishes. There is also a creative selection of bao buns, including the dessert bao with (brace yourself) chocolate ganache with wasabi salt. It’s exactly the kind of casual dining you would expect from a chef who has actually written books on flavour.
WHAT ELSE? If you happen to be lucky enough to be in Galway, you could do a lot worse than visiting McMahon’s other culinary institutions, Aniar and Cava Bodega. @komburamenbaogalway
BLACKTHORN, THE TWELVE HOTEL, GALWAY
THE SCOOP: Blackthorn has replaced the long-standing West restaurant at The Twelve Hotel, but – fear not – head chef Nathan Hindmarsh is still at the helm, and extraordinary sommelier Fergal Guiney hasn’t gone anywhere either. The dining space itself has undergone a revamp, swapping the previous layout for a mix of smaller and communal tables that makes it feel more like a social supper club than a formal fine dining establishment. But the real shift is on the menu, with a selection of contemporary dishes that are already earning glowing reviews.
ON THE PLATE: Starters range from barbecued quail ramen with spiced foie gras broth to a summery courgette salad with smoked almond, ricotta and tahini, while the mains feature irresistible meat dishes cooked over fire on the Mibrasa parrilla grill.
WHAT ELSE? Making a night of it seems like a no-brainer. One night bed and breakfast at The Twelve, with dinner in Blackthorn, starts at €160 per person.
THE CUAN, STRANGFORD VILLAGE, CO DOWN
THE SCOOP: A low-key restaurant with rooms, The Cuan has been a mainstay in the village of Strangford since the 1800s. Once a well-worn pub (with a Game of Thrones cameo), The Cuan reopened in 2021 after a £1m stg makeover, emerging as a boutique hotel with a highly acclaimed restaurant. There are nine nature-inspired bedrooms, designed by Garuda Design, and on the ground floor a New York-inspired Art Deco-style bar.
ON THE PLATE: Chef Gerard Sands leads the kitchen with a deft hand, turning out elevated pub fare that’s big on local flavour. There is seafood chowder with treacle and Guinness bread, Strangford mussels and Portavogie prawns from the neighbouring town.
WHAT ELSE? After lunch in The Cuan, take the ten minute ferry from Strangford across to Portaferry to experience the Marine Nature Reserve with its population of seals, jellyfish and sea birds.
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