Everything worth noting about Maria Grazia Chiuri’s SS23 Dior show …
The Muse
The story goes that Maria Grazia Chiuri was looking at a map of Paris on a vintage 1950s Dior scarf, when her eye was drawn to the Tuileries Garden, where Queen Catherine de Medici built the Palais des Tuileries in 1564. As the muse for the SS23, Catherine de Medici represents both an intelligent, politically savvy woman and also a style icon. Catherine de Medici pioneered heeled shoes, the corset and the use of Burano lace, which were all brought into the royal manufactures during her reign. According to the show notes, “The corset or guêpière, was sometimes concealed, sometimes visible, reminiscent of the wide skirts donned at the court of Catherine de Medici.”
Flamboyant patterns, dark colours, lace collars and long gowns with low necklines are synonymous with the period and have been reworked by Chiuri. She has stayed within the colour palette, with black, white and off white or patterned gowns or jackets. Some jackets and coats referenced floral and bird motifs. I particularly liked a black and white toile de Jouy trench and the embroidered elements of the collection which I am sure will be replicated by high street brands next spring. Chiuri described the show as “a fascinating collective energy exploring the multiple facets of feminine power.”
The Caves
The scenography was designed by artist Eva Jospin who recreated a Baroque grotto. She was inspired by The Buttes Chaumont grotto in Paris, the Villa Borromeo Visconti Litta in Lombardy, and the frescoes of the Palazzina Cinese in Palermo. The show notes explained: “Grottos and caves are architecture carved into rock, changing over time, characterised by the progression of nature, the metamorphosis of encrusted shells. Gallery, forest, cave: the artist’s universe explores interiority, mystery, with those energies that constitute a fundamental component of femininity.”
Jospin’s installation was certainly evocative and, let’s face it, a bit spooky but it was the perfect backdrop for the choreography by Dutch duo Irme and Marne van Opstal, who opened the show. The dance was both beautiful and surreal – enhanced by their costumes designed to evoke the idea of moving marble and stone statues.
The Craftsmanship
For this SS23 show, Maria Grazia Chiuri joined forces with silk weavers Tassinari & Chatel by Lelièvre Paris, who created two patterns. These were chosen from the archives and are entitled “Semé de fleurs” and “Oiseau de Paradis”, both representing nature, another key inspiration. The handcrafted works were originally commissioned by decorator Monsieur Despréaux de Saint-Sauveur, who notably worked for Emperor Napoleon III.
The Make-up
Many were quick to spot the interesting subverted feline flick used in the models make-up. This was created by make-up artist Peter Philips by ringing the upper and lower lashes with heavy eyeliner and creating a subtle cross formation in the corner. Apparently model Stella Lucia had used this on Instagram which appealed to Chiuri. Possibly this subverted feline flick is the easiest style takeaway from the show.
For further reference about this era in history, do watch The Serpent Queen, which premiered this month, a TV drama about the life of Catherine de’ Medici starring Samantha Morton. I’d also recommend Maggie O’Farrell’s novel The Marriage Portrait, set during the same period which references not only the (often uncomfortable) ornate fashion but the disturbing trend of child brides.
To watch the Dior SS23 show visit www.dior.com.
