I moved from Dublin to Split in 2021 and have found it a great city to work remotely from; the internet is high-speed, there are plenty of dedicated places and hot desks to work from, and it’s very easy to make friends, as there is a great community of people doing the same thing. The expat community is from all over the world, but mainly from South America, the UK and from Canada.

The city itself very small (with a population of 180,000) and is divided up in to different districts, from the historic Diocletian Palace area to the white stone houses of Veli Varoš, or the up and coming Žnjan. Wherever you go, you end up seeing the same people, which can be a great way to break the ice. On Facebook groups, you will find weekly events and workshops, from painting classes to entrepreneurs networking. The locals are incredibly friendly and welcoming, especially to people staying long term. I found Croatian start-ups organise events as well, not only to network but to introduce their country and culture to people who have recently arrived. I haven’t found the language to be a barrier on an everyday basis, but it can be when bureaucracy is involved. 

Some of the favourite places for expats to work from are D16 (great coffee, workshops, and events), The Daltonist (particularly good for expat meet-ups, great beer and coffee), as well as Basta (which has fast internet, a great view, and is open from breakfast till late at night).

The downside is that most of the city’s restaurants, bars and shops close after the summer season, and as a result the city can become a bit empty between the months of November and March. It really changes during the winter – some people move to larger cities and come back in spring. Also, a word of warning, if it’s your dream to live on an island, check with the landlord/Airbnb first, as the internet (even cell phone reception) can be a challenge on the islands. 

Here’s my Little Black Book of places to go:

Split, Croatia is a place like no other, the incredible architecture, the history, and the people are like I have only seen before in history books, I’m constantly in awe of how this city’s preserved history merges incredibly well with trendy restaurants and boutiques. A simple walk by Riva‘s seafront promenade overlooking the Adriatic sea is enough to get a glimpse of the city’s energy and to witness the Dalmatian way of living. Locals always have an espresso and a cigarette to hand, and are surrounded by friends or family. Contrasting with the hustle and bustle of big cities, here it’s not the done thing to get a takeaway coffee. In this region of Croatia, there’s always time to enjoy the little things in life, sometimes, for hours on end. 

To start your day well, and do it as the locals do, I would suggest a lovely coffee shop with outdoor seating, a bit secluded within the palace walls, called Teak Caffe, sip your coffee while dreaming about the history and the people that once lived there. If you are a coffee lover, who appreciates specialty coffee, a trendy atmosphere, and super friendly staff, I recommend Kava 2, a great place to people-watch and enjoy the outdoor seating surrounded by lime trees.

The Dalmatian region of Croatia has the best Mediterranean cuisine: locally sourced fish (think tuna steaks, octopus salad, cuttlefish risotto), incredible olive oil, local wines (wines from Kor?ula Island are a favourite), as well other Croatian delicacies like Istrian truffles and Slavonian kulen Sausage.

When in Rome, I mean, Split, you can’t escape delicious seafood and the heat, so to get a little break from the scorching sun in the summer, head to Portofino, a gem of a restaurant in a small alley opposite Diocletian’s Palace. A popular order is grilled octopus, followed by lobster and truffle fettuccine (the menu changes constantly, but it’s always a great surprise). On a more experimental level, Šug Restaurant has an incredible take on Croatian and classic European dishes; my go-to is beef steak tartare, venison stew or pašticada od gove?eg oraha (homemade gnocchi with slow-cooked beef). End your evening with a glass of wine or a cocktail by the steps of Diocletian Palace (pictured), while enjoying live music played outside Lvxor Restaurant every night. 

Split is also a great place if you have a sweet tooth, on a hot summer’s day Gelateria Emiliana is where to go to have the best gelato in town, known for their freshly made wafer cones and flowery gelato flavours like lavender and rose with peach. Be prepared to wait in a long queue, but I swear it’s worth it! If gelato is not your dessert of choice, I suggest a local speciality called knedla, a delicious soft potato dumpling with a sweet filling. My favourite is the pistachio and raspberry flavour from Borgo, Knedla Bar, where you can find a variety of flavours, from classic sugar and plum to Nutella. 

I can’t talk about Split and not mention the stunning crystal water beaches, the town is surrounded by them, and there’s a type for everyone. If you enjoy a more secluded, peaceful beach, surrounded by nature Lubinski Porat Beach (pictured) within Marjan park is a great place for snorkelling and reading a book. If you prefer a place where you can rent a chair and a parasol, order cocktails and have a wonderful view, Kasjuni Beach is for you. Closer to the old town, there’s Firule, a sandy bay, protected from the dreaded burra (wind), where locals play picigin (a traditional ball game) in the shallow, warm waters all year-round, making the beach very family-friendly and accessible.

The city has incredible views, wherever you look, whether you are up for a bit of a hike or a sunset (or sunrise?) stroll. With easy access from the town, Marjan hill viewpoint or Belvedere has spectacular views of the mountains, surrounding towns and islands. An unusual place to see the sunset while enjoying local art is Mestrovi? Gallery, an art monument itself, the gallery is dedicated to the artwork of Ivan Meštrovi?, where art, nature and architecture blend perfectly together. 

Honourable mention: The islands of Hvar and Kor?ula (a short ferry from Split), and the towns of Omiš and Primošten (less than a two-hour drive from Split), are definitely worth a day trip!

Need to Know: Ryanair operates a direct flight to Split airport, which is 30 minutes from the centre. For hotels, the Plaza Marchi Old Town is next to the Diocletian Palace and only a few minutes from the beach. Rooms are elegant and airy and the hotel has a terrace and bar; www.maestral-accommodation.com. The Radisson Blu Resort & Spa is very popular – book a balcony room with a seaview; www.radissonhotels.com. The Briig Boutique Hotel, by the sea, has a great pool and bar; www.briig-hotel.com. For a special group holiday with friends or family, consider this contemporary waterfront home in Sumartin on the Split Riviera. It sleeps twelve (with six bedrooms) and is part of Stay One Degree’s portfolio of properties. Rental costs are from €1,900 per night – private chefs and yoga courses can be organised; www.stayone.com. 

Follow Jessica’s travels on @weimerjessica.