Irish architect and artist Pigsy shares his tips for the city …
I came to Shanghai as an artist-in-residence at AcentricSpace, initially thinking that I would make artwork about China. Instead, living in the town of Zhujiajiao and walking its quieter laneways, I started recognising things that felt strangely familiar.
I grew up around the back lanes of northside Dublin. These people were strangers, yet nothing about them felt unfamiliar. That experience became the starting point for my exhibition “Wayward Tribe”, but it also became my way into Shanghai itself: looking at the city not simply as a visitor, but as an artist interested in its people, architecture, art, food and the extraordinary contrasts between ancient and hyper-modern life.
Zhujiajiao is where I have been based – an ancient water town often referred to as the Venice of Shanghai. Many visitors take the metro for the 90-minute trip from Central Shanghai to visit the town but it deserves more than a quick afternoon excursion. A must-do is a boat trip along the canal – a relaxing and meditative experience which offers a chance to view the surroundings from a different perspective.
As an architect, I find Shanghai constantly places radically different periods beside one another, and that tension between preservation, adaptation and relentless construction is fascinating. A first stop should be the Long Museum where I saw the excellent Wallace Chan show “Vessels of Other Worlds” featuring massive titanium structures to tiny intricate jewellery. Then there is the Power Station of Art; the sheer scale of the building can’t help but impress along with its current Lina Bo Bardi architectural exhibition. The China Art Museum, the Museum of Art Pudong (MAP), M50 Creative Park and Yuz Museum are also worth investigating, for alternative art.
If you are seeking something beyond museums, the Jing’an Temple is a spiritual place in the busyness of a commercial city, with traditional architecture and large silver and jade buddha statues. However, if you are looking for calm, quiet and solitude spend time in the Yuanjin Buddhist Temple in Zhujiajiao.
For a caffeine fix, Manner Coffee is everywhere, as is Luckin Coffee. Beyond these Chinese chain coffee shops, my favourite coffee stop has become Hamlet & Co. Located in a small bookshop, it’s the perfect stop for a slow coffee away from the tourist areas.
For dinner in Zhujiajiao, I recommend Yulan Magnolia Restaurant which offers specials such as local river crab and osmanthus-infused pork belly or stir fried beef. However, eating in Shanghai city doesn’t necessarily require a restaurant. Food is everywhere. Small shops and stalls sell dumplings, bao and noodles, as do numerous food courts. They are a great way of trying and tasting smaller portions of food without having to commit to a full dish of something that you are unsure of. I am still building up the courage to try things like deep fried scorpions on sticks other fried insects!
For shopping, Shanghai has a talent for the unexpected. White Rabbit is a cultural icon; its sweets were presented to US President Richard Nixon in 1972 as a state gift. The flagship store is on East Nanjing Road and features a full range of White Rabbit products beyond the candy.
The Louis Vuitton Experience has to be mentioned for the sheer spectacle (It’s free but needs to be booked through WeChat). It’s set in a vessel-like structure and shows the heritage of Louis Vuitton as a trunk maker and then brings you to the store where there is a full array of LV products.
I also recommend the small stores in Zhujiajiao where you’ll find artisans who design silk scarves, small pottery pieces, paper fans (both essential and beautiful), miniature tea sets, decorative hair sticks and other items that make for great souvenirs or gifts.
Where to Stay
The Westin Bund Center Hotel is a central base for exploring both the historic centre and the river. It’s located on metro line 2 and with easy access to Pudong Airport. For atmosphere, consider staying within the former French Concession. Surrounded by tree-lined streets, historic villas, independent shops, cafés and restaurants it is one of the easiest areas to wander and people watch from a cafe. The legendary Fairmont Peace Hotel is worth visiting for its history, Art Deco architecture and association with old Shanghai. Interestingly the hotel has a jazz band that has played in the Art Deco Lounge for over 40 years.
Need to Know: Wayward Tribe, by PIGSY is on at AcentricSpace, Shanghai. Find out more at pigsy.art.
