Save this recipe from the American writer and cook’s new cookbook, Something From Nothing …
Alison Roman (@alisonroman) trained as a pastry chef, worked in restaurant kitchens, then moved into magazine test kitchens: first at Bon Appétit, where she became a senior editor, then Buzzfeed Food, and later The New York Times, where she became a recipe columnist in 2018. But it was her cookbooks and relaxed, relatable social media that pushed her into the spotlight. Her recipes are unfussy, doable and instantly recognisable as Alison’s. These days she writes the wildly popular newsletter, and hosts the YouTube series Home Movies.
Her new book, Something From Nothing, grows out of all of this: the graft, the pantry-based cooking, the no frills and the understanding that most people don’t live above a perfectly stocked Italian deli. Spending more time in Upstate New York, away from the convenience of city life, forced her to cook like most home cooks do – with whatever’s available. Old fennel, a half-jar of capers, leftover rice, a head of garlic. Real ingredients, slightly scruffy, that need rescuing.
SEE MORE: Alison’s Lentil Dip With Toasted Garlic And Crispy Herbs
CREAMY CAULIFLOWER PASTA WITH PECORINO BREADCRUMBS
“This recipe is wonderful for many reasons: A whole head of cauliflower caramelises in a skillet before being simmered with cream, black pepper, pecorino cheese and a bit of lemon zest, breaking down into a special (and yes, decadent) sauce to coat the pasta shape of your choosing. It’s all very dreamy. But really, it’s the pecorino breadcrumbs we’re here for, and that’s okay – they’re magnificent. A crunchy, oily, salty vehicle for more cheese and much-needed texture, they’re the ideal finish to a saucy pasta such as this, but don’t stop there. Use them as tiny croutons to finish a Caesar salad or scatter them over the top of a pot of saucy beans. Once they’re in your life, you’ll never want to be without them.”
Serves 4
Ingredients
6 tbsps olive oil
60g fresh, coarse or panko breadcrumbs
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
30g finely grated pecorino cheese, plus more to serve
225g dried rigatoni, ziti or campanelle
1 large shallot, finely chopped
1 medium head cauliflower, sliced about 1cm thick (I like to include the leaves and stem, but that is optional)
250ml double (heavy) cream
1 tbsp finely grated lemon zest, plus more to serve
25g finely chopped chives
Chilli flakes (optional)
Serve with
Like all heavier, creamier pastas, this is especially nice with a brightly dressed leafy, herby salad.
Method
1. Heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large skillet over a medium heat. Add the breadcrumbs and season with salt and pepper. Stir to coat evenly in the oil and cook, tossing occasionally, until they’re evenly toasted and golden brown, for about 4–6 minutes.
2. Add half of the pecorino and toss to coat, letting the cheese melt and clump among the breadcrumbs (think granola-like clusters). Remove from the heat and transfer to a small bowl or plate; set aside.
3. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Cook the pasta until al dente; save about 250ml of pasta water, then drain.
4. Wipe out any crumbs from the skillet and heat the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil over a medium heat. Add the shallot and cauliflower and season with salt and plenty of pepper. Cook, tossing occasionally, until the cauliflower has completely softened and both the cauliflower and shallots are beginning to caramelise and brown, 12–15 minutes.
5. Add the cream and lemon zest and bring to a simmer, then let the cream reduce and thicken, 2–4 minutes. Season with salt and plenty of pepper.
6. Add the pasta to the cauliflower along with the remaining pecorino and 175ml of the pasta water. Cook, tossing to coat the pasta and thicken the sauce, until it’s thick and glossy and almost resembles macaroni and cheese, adding more pasta water by the tablespoon as needed, 4–6 minutes.
7. Remove from the heat. Divide the pasta among bowls and top with pecorino breadcrumbs, chives, more lemon zest, chilli flakes (if using) and more cheese if you like.
Something From Nothing: A Cookbook by Alison Roman, Quadrille. Photographs by Chris Bernabeo. In bookshops now, €37.80.
SEE MORE: Save Alison Roman’s 6 Step Recipe For Slowly Braised Chilli