THE GLOSS & The Merrion’s Elegant Summer Wine Dinner was an unforgettable six-course food and wine odyssey …
It was a delightfully balmy evening for the special occasion that was THE GLOSS & The Merrion’s Wine Dinner at The Merrion on May 15. Themed ‘Elegant Summer’, the event featured six courses, matched with wines from the cru-classé Chateau de Fieuzal, owned for more than 20 years by the Quinn family, who were also responsible for envisioning and creating the wonderful venue that is The Merrion. So, there were many associations to celebrate, including the marking of more than 16 years of THE GLOSS & The Merrion’s unique series of special Wine Dinners. A vintage pairing indeed!
Wine Editor of THE GLOSS, Julie Dupouy, explained the detailed process behind THE GLOSS & The Merrion Wine Dinners, where the wines are thoughtfully and precisely matched with the dishes created by Executive Chef, Ed Cooney and his team – both an art and a science.
On guests’ arrival at The Garden Room, its doors open to the pretty terrace, they were treated to L’Abeille de Fieuzal Blanc 2022, with a canapé of Paris Mushroom Tartare. The second white wine was a stunning L’Abeille de Fieuzal Blanc 2018 to accompany the Dublin Bay Prawn Salad with Cocktail Sauce, a twist on the traditional, with celeriac remoulade and a hint of horseradish.
The history of Chateau de Fieuzal, located in the Pessac-Leognan region south of Bordeaux, goes back over 400 years, according to Daragh Quinn, the family member leading the Château. Fieuzal’s legendary 1893 vintage sat on the table of Pope Léon XIII in the Vatican and its red became Grand Cru Classé in 1959 – now recognised as one of the finest Grand Crus of Bordeaux.
After Roast Monkfish Tail was served with a wonderful Château de Fieuzal Blanc 2016 (from magnums), Julie explained that the Fieuzal vineyard, protected by 30 hectares of forest and hedgerows, has 74 individual plots containing six grape varieties, which are picked by hand and assembled and blended in different combinations. As well as French oak barrels, Fieuzal ages some of the wines in acacia wood barrels, which balances and mellows the wine. Gravel stones, that give the Graves appellation its name, infuse the roots of the Fieuzal vines with a rich minerality, without affecting their vibrant freshness.
The first of the red wines served, Château de Fieuzal Rouge 2015, decanted from double magnums, was brilliantly matched with Herb-Crusted Lamb, Confit Sicilian Marinda Tomato, Killowen Yogurt and Braised Leg Bon Bon. A cheese course followed, with Julie challenging guests to determine if the Milleens from Co Cork worked best with the Château de Fieuzal Rouge 1983 with its rind on or off. It was an interesting exercise in the mysteries of the palate – Julie decreed the rind should be removed for the perfect match to be enacted.
Dinner culminated in an exquisite dessert. The Dark Chocolate and Cherry with Cherry Gelato, conceived and introduced by Pastry Chef of The Merrion, Paul Kelly, was created to pair beautifully with L’Abeille de Fieuzal Rouge 2022, which is almost half and half Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with five per cent Petit Verdot, a traditional Bordeaux red wine grape which adds colour and flavour. Paul Kelly explained how The Merrion has developed its own unique chocolate, having developed a unique cacao profile with world-renowned Paris institute Cacoa Barry. This pairing was extraordinary, perfectly demonstrating the joy of specificity, and expertise, in both cuisine and fine wine-making.
Jane and Sarah McDonnell, founders of THE GLOSS, and Peter MacCann, General Manager of The Merrion are already planning the next Wine Dinner to take place in December. Watch this space!