Domini Kemp describes her Spanish safari getaway in the sunshine-soaked Trasierra …
One of my favourite places in the world is Trasierra, in Southern Spain, home of Charlotte Scott and her brood of beautiful and fascinating children who drop in and out of the running of this former hotel. Nowadays, it operates as a private rental and has to be booked out in its entirety, which means a more sustainable way forward for Charlotte and the estate. Suppose you like the kind of posh/casual family vibe of Ballyvolane, in Cork, where Justin and Jenny Green treat you like their favourite relative who needs lots of delicious food, pots of tea, rhubarb martinis. Well, let’s just say, Trasierra has that same relaxed feel, but with lots more sunshine.
Honesty bars, gracious and discreet hosts, plus just the perfect and exquisitely furnished details blend with an air of poshness that comes from years of good taste and a razor-like focus on what defines hospitality. For some, it’s golf courses, Michelin stars and spas. Trasierra is as far away from chinos and high-tech screens as you can get and is instead, a pretty blend of home cooking, twinkly lights, and stunningly comfortable interiors. Shabby chic isn’t really fair, as it’s lovelier than that, but it’s not slick in any way. So when I saw that George (one of her children) had started his own riding safari holidays in the same region, it promptly went on my bucket list as he has the best training in how to be the consummate host.
It’s easy not to make time to do these things, but as the years rolled on, and I reluctantly embraced my 50s, the ink became more visible on said bucket list. The youngest child is a keen enough horse-rider, so she was the perfect plus-one for this outdoor adventure. The first night, we got to stay in Trasierra, as one big group of riders, so we spent that first night eagerly trying to figure out who, why and what over a delicious communal dinner of olives, cured Iberico hams, cheeses, sumptuous salads (all from the kitchen garden) and wines and sherry. I’m far too discreet to name drop, so all I will say is that this kind of holiday attracts a certain style of traveller who would be horrified to go holidaying in Dubai.
It’s an all-in adventure and the gorgeous allure of a glass of sherry or rosé, some wonderful almonds, and superb home cooking cannot be underestimated, especially against the backdrop of balmy heat and stunning interiors. After an evening listening to tales from George, everyone wandered off to their rooms to drown themselves in sumptuous pillows and soft, crisp sheets – a wonderful sleep followed by the joy of waking up to a perfect breakfast spread. We slowly got ourselves booted and suited and walked down to the stables to get saddled up.
We set off for what was the gentlest and most soothing few hours I have spent in years. We were there during the killer heatwave, so the pace was slower than usual, but halfway through the day, we got to stop by a shaded area where the horses grazed, and we were all fed and watered. Some wonderfully salty bottles of Vichy water and a selection of more cured meats, fishes, stews and salads, followed by fruits and little cakes, coffees and teas (and plenty of drinks on offer that no one touched during the day) plus the lure of a blanket and a snooze in the mid-day heat, under swishing trees.
This is a place of nature, no phones, and plenty of time for contemplation. It’s a bit Out of Africa and although riding for so many hours a day can take its toll when you’re a little out of practice, the following evening in the Rajasthani tents and shower under the trees was just a fantastic way to ease sore bones. You arrive at the camp, dusty and exhausted, but once showered and wearing lighter clothes, we all walked to the top of the hill to watch the sunset before being led to exquisite tables, beautifully laid with some stunning touches, where we were served a barbecue feast of the most delicious meats, washed down by soft local wines.
Stories unfold by the firelight, and a gentle wave of tiredness takes over and lulls you back down to the camp.
Breakfast was served the next morning by the superb team on linen draped tables outside. Everyone potters until dressed and ready for the last day of riding. The pop-up lunches in another scenic lakeside location is followed by the last night in George’s house, where yet another excellent dinner seemed to fill our senses for a year.
This holiday is not for everyone – the riding is long, and the tents – while perfectly kitted out – are rustic and although we hit the heatwave, the shoulders of the season are probably better for hours in the saddle. There are insects and brambles, low branches, and communal facilities, plus you need a decent level of skill to be able to ride each day for up to five hours. This is not a holiday for those that are a little precious and are expecting room service.
But for me, it was the perfect blend of adventure, luxury, nature and delicious food in incredibly beautiful landscapes – a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to have an Andalucian adventure with my daughter that I will absolutely treasure. Three days is plenty and you can finish the trip with one night in Seville as a final farewell and a small blast of civilisation.
The three-day rides cost €2,500 and five-day rides cost €4,500, including food and drink; book via www.georgescottrides.com.
Photography by Georgina Preston