One of the larger Greek islands, Corfu, known as Kerkyra in Greek, is an Ionian Island with a colourful history that has been inhabited since the Paleolithic Era. Here’s where to stay, what to eat and when to visit …
There is something magical about the Greek isles but Corfu in particular has so much to offer the savvy holidaymaker. According to Homer’s The Odyssey, Corfu was home of the Phaeacians, and the island where Odysseus was shipwrecked on his return journey to Ithaca. The city itself is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is a stunning reminder of the island’s turbulent history with both British and French influences being apparent in the old town. However it was the Venetians (who ruled the island for 400 years) who undoubtedly had the largest impact on the island, both architecturally and culturally. Incidentally, Corfu was also the birthplace of the first Greek university, known as The Ionian Academy. Add to that its cerulean water, lush green countryside and friendly locals, it’s not difficult to see why some people return to Corfu year upon year.
When to Visit
As with all the Greek islands, the summer months are the busiest with May and September being a good time to enjoy the island without the avalanche of sun seekers. The city of Kerkyra is open year round but in the resorts you will find that amenities are generally open from May to October.
Where to Stay in Corfu Town
Siorra Vittoria Boutique Hotel
A historic townhouse that has been restored to its original splendour, the Siorra Vittoria is a tranquil oasis a mere stone’s throw from Spianada Square, the largest square in the Balkans. There is a pretty garden to allow refuge from the busy streets and rooms are modern with subtle nods to to its history. Double rooms from €107. www.hotelswebgr.com
Cavalieri Hotel
The combination of great location plus a rooftop bar and restaurant with commanding views over the harbour and the old fortress makes The Cavalieri Hotel a good choice for a sojourn in Corfu town. The hotel itself is set in a 17th-century neoclassical mansion and although she may be feeling her age, The Cavalieri is fitting for an up close and personal glimpse into Corfu’s Venetian history. Located just steps away from the famous Liston promenade, The Cavalieri is slightly faded but sitting on the rooftop, aperitif in hand, it’s easy to overlook her quirks. Double rooms from €91. www.cavalierihotel.gr
Where To Eat in Corfu Town
Venetian Well
The Venetian Well is perhaps the most well-known restaurant in Corfu and is renowned for its overtly romantic atmosphere and excellent food. Located in a stunning square by the cathedral that even boasts its own authentic Venetian well – you’ll find Greek food as you have never know it before. www.venetianwell.gr
Pane e Souvlaki
For cheap eats, it’s worth hunting down Pane e Souvlaki for, you guessed it, bread and souvlaki – although there is so much more to choose from. It’s a favourite with locals and the quality of the food is difficult to beat at these prices. The fact that it’s tucked away in a beautiful square that also houses the Town Hall doesn’t hurt either. Fish lovers will enjoy their sister restaurant, Psaraki for fish platters. www.panesouvlaki.com
The North East Coast
Less than an hour from the city, the north east coast of the island is the perfect place to escape the hustle and bustle for a few days. Head down the coast to the tiny hamlets of Kalami (of The Durrell’s fame), Agni Bay, Kerasia, Agios Stefanos North East, and the larger village of Kassiopi where the preferred mode of transport is motor boat which anyone can hire to traverse the seas. All of these tiny bays have excellent restaurants where the staff are well versed in guiding novice boaters into shore and the food and waterside ambiance will banish any initial scepticism from the boat adverse. Expect crystal clear water too.
Where To Stay on the Coast
Hotels on the north east coast of the island are uncommon, with many visitors opting for a self-catering apartment or villa. Agni Travel is just one of the villa companies that have a variety of villas dotted around this stretch of coastline. Prices vary depending on the season. www.agnitravel.com
Melina Bay Hotel
In the coastal Greek village of Kassiopi, the Melina Bay Hotel is well positioned at the busy harbour amidst the traditional tavernas and gelato shops. Recently refurbished rooms have either sea or garden views and the hotel also boasts a restaurant, pool and a cocktail bar. Doubles from €90. www.melinabay.com
The White House, Kalami
Perhaps one of the most famous landmarks in the region, The White House (pictured above) is part of the island’s cultural heritage and is the former home of British author Lawrence Durrell who lived here with his wife Nancy, in the 1930s. In his book, Prospero’s Cell, Durrell described The White House as being “…set like a dice on a rock already venerable with the scars of wind and water”. Today, the building houses a restaurant and upstairs, the original living quarters of the family that can be rented as a holiday home during the summer season. Kalami Bay itself is a dream with its unique rock formations, olive groves sweeping down to the sea, and the endless azure waters of the Ionian Sea. www.thewhitehouse.gr
Where to Eat on the Coast
Thomas’s Place, Kalami
Located right on the beach, Thomas’s Place is ideal for a lunch pit stop in Kalami Bay. The menu is filled with Corfiot specialities and enjoying a Greek salad and a chilled glass of crisp white wine is an idyllic way to spend an afternoon. Prices are fair too. www.thomasplace.gr/
To Fagopotion, Agios Stefanos NE
Perched on the water’s edge in beautiful Agios Stefanos (or Kensington on Sea to those in the know), the best way to arrive at Taverna To Fagopotion is by boat and owner Christos will always assist novice boaters to dock at his jetty. The baby squid is out of this world and for dessert, it has to be the traditional Corfiot orange pie. A word of warning however, always get exact prices when ordering specials to avoid any nasty surprises. www.facebook.com/taverna.fagopotion
Taverna Agni
Another one best reached by boat (in fact a road down to the bay is a fairly recent addition) Taverna Agni offers a boat taxi service at night from surrounding bays. Given that the Rothschild estate is in close proximity, the clientele at Agni verge on the ‘well-to-do’ side and the menu is priced accordingly. But Taverna Agni is special and as a one off, it’s worth every penny, for the setting alone. Happily the food lives up. If boats are your thing, bring your camera and get snap happy with the abundance of impressing yachts waiting patiently. www.agni.gr
Wave Bar, Agios Stefanos
Back in picture perfect Agios Stefanos (pictured above), owner Maria Doumarapi has created the perfect holiday cocktail bar by the water’s edge. Wave Bar is the ideal spot for a newspaper, a Bloody Mary and a club sandwich during the day and equally it’s perfect for pre- or post-dinner cocktails. The crowd is a good mix of both older and younger patrons enjoying Maria’s hospitality and as the night becomes morning, the small dancefloor inside is the place to be. www.wavebar.gr
Both Aer Lingus and Ryanair fly from Dublin to Corfu from May to October.