Where to stay and what to see in this accessible and charming city …
You may be familiar with this elegant university city through books – EM Forster’s novel Maurice explores the emotional landscape of Cambridge, particularly the UK’s Trinity College. Kate Atkinson offers a more contemporary take in her excellent novel Case Histories. Cinephiles and set jetters will also know Cambridge from The Theory of Everything, the romantic biographical drama exploring the life of physicist Stephen Hawking and his relationship with his first wife, Jane Wilde. Set against the backdrop of Trinity where Hawking studied, the film showcases key locations like the Wren Library.
I spent a post-graduate year in Cambridge, and loved its mix of college squares, culture and café society. A favourite spot was Clare Bridge, the oldest functioning bridge in the area, dating from 1640. Another haunt was Cambridge Botanic Gardens, particularly stunning in autumn when foliage combines with late flowers, seedheads, fruits and feathery grasses to create a richly textured tapestry.
For culture
A must-do, in my opinion, is to take a guided house tour of Kettle’s Yard, founded by Jim and Helen Eden who believed in art’s ability to transform lives.
As a complement to this, explore the work of local artists such as Sean Thornhill at Cambridge Contemporary Art.
The university’s Fitzwilliam Museum is also worth a visit, where its exhibition “Made in Ancient Egypt” sheds new life on how the ancient Egyptians lived, worked and worshipped.
For shopping
I also like the mix of independent shops and interesting boutiques, including Cambridge Cheese Company and Hill St Chocolate. For fashion, try Iris & Violet for women or Dogfish for men, or for great gift ideas browse the edit at Podarok and Ark.
For coffee
Irish designer Rory Hutton is based in Cambridge where he recommends coffee at Hot Numbers on Gwydir Street. He says, “It has that trendy East London vibe, but more importantly it’s next door to my two favourite antique shops. I rarely miss a Saturday morning wander here. Just across the road is David Parr House, a jewel-box arts and crafts interior, every inch painted with trailing vines, pomegranates and ornate calligraphy. Book well ahead, it’s magic.”
For drinks
“After some retail therapy, the rooftop at De Luca is perfect for an early evening glass of wine, as is the terrace on top of The Varsity Hotel which offers panoramic views of the city skyline. Novi is anther rooftop gem known for its botanical cocktails, vibrant brunches and modern British sharing plates.”
For lunch and dinner
“For a light lunch, head to Kettle’s Yard, as mentioned above. The café is small but attracts all the local creatives, you might even spot Ai Weiwei! I was asked to design some scarves for Kettles’ Yard which was an interesting commission. For dinner The Punter, just around the corner is hard to beat. This cosy pub with its mismatched paintings and bohemian atmosphere make it the perfect end to a day steeped in art.”
Punting
“Punting is a must in Cambridge, with Rutherfords and Scudamores. My most memorable cocktail was enjoyed mid-river, when a passing punt, kitted out as a floating bar, pulled alongside and served drinks on the water. A touch of serendipity, yes, but entirely unforgettable.”
WHERE TO STAY
Wilde, Cambridge City Centre
Inspired by the wit and style of Oscar Wilde, this cool aparthotel is a short walk to Cambridge’s iconic park, Jesus Green, as well as the River Cam, Wilde. Interiors have been designed by the acclaimed London design studio Thurstan and seamlessly blend the old with the new, with a balance of contemporary and mid-century influences. Art is a focus; pieces by local artists adorn the walls, including surrealist oil portraits from Cambridgeshire-based Adi Novac, Margaret Souttar’s ’60s cityscapes of Cambridge’s world famous colleges, and works from Cambridge-born photographic artist Sid White-Jones.
SEE MORE: A Luxurious Two-Night Escape At The Wilde Aparthotel
University Arms
Literature permeates every corner of this gorgeous boutique hotel: one quirky touch is the recording of Alan Bennett reading Wind in the Willows in the hotel’s public bathrooms. Guests can also choose to stay in rooms named after literary legends including Virginia Woolf, John Milton, Alfred Tennyson, A A Milne and Lord Byron. Each suite’s library contains a selection of books by the namesake author or by those who would have inspired them; for example, Isaac Newton’s suite contains a book on apple orchards! The hotel also has a Book Butler who will meet guests over a cup of tea to discuss their literary preferences and will then handpick a selection from the hotel’s beautifully designed library (originally curated by Heywood Hill, the legendary London bookshop).
SEE MORE: The Glossy Guide To Cambridge
Hughes Hall
Another option is to stay in one of the university rooms, a backstage pass to student life and a chance to re-trace the footsteps of graduates such as Charles Darwin, William Wordsworth and John Cleese. Staying in university rooms is a great alternative to local budget hotels, while also helping to generate revenue which contributes to the upkeep of these iconic buildings. Try Hughes Hall, the oldest postgraduate college, located next to the iconic Parkers Piece. The college is as an oasis of calm in the middle of the city, with the River Cam just five minutes away should you want to try your hand at punting.
SEE MORE: Staying At Trinity College Dublin
The Graduate Hotel
Also along the river, guests can unwind in the quaint rooms and common areas, while the hotel’s in-house restaurant, Garden House, opens onto the riverbank, creating an ideal setting to soak up the atmosphere and enjoy seasonal dishes.
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