The undisputed king and queen of white grape varieties, in terms of complexity and ageing potential are Chardonnay and Riesling. Top Chardonnay and Riesling command high prices driven by ever-growing demand and limited production. Wines from their best producers are starting to mirror the success of top fashion houses.

Wine labels are becoming brands to aspire to own or consume and the prices are naturally following. There are however three positions on a podium and the variety that should be taking a proud step forward and rightfully enjoying a little more attention is Chenin Blanc. As Jancis Robinson wrote in her blog in May 2021: “Chenin Blanc may well be the most underrated white wine grape in the world.” I could not agree more. Chenin Blanc is an incredibly versatile grape variety that expresses itself differently depending on the climate and type of soil it is grown in – clean, dry and intensely mineral styles right through to luscious, vibrant and intense sweet options. The full spectrum also extends to some stunning sparkling wines, all based on this wonderful variety. For early, fruit–forward consumption or aged gracefully, gaining great complexity with its maturity, Chenin does everything its rivals do but for a fraction of the price. Excellent natural acidity and potential for great aromatic complexity are the foundations on which this grape stands.

Aromatically, Chenin Blanc grapes tend to produce wines that offer nuances of yellow apple, quince, stone fruits, and citrus but will gain in complexity over time, developing a bouquet of honey, chamomile and honeysuckle.

Currently, the largest producer of Chenin Blanc in the world is South Africa with around 19,000 hectares under vine, making it the most planted grape variety in the country. Chenin arrived in South Africa in the middle of the 17th century and was called “Steen” until 1963, when Professor Chris Offer, from Stellenbosch University, discovered that Steen and Chenin Blanc were in fact the same grape variety. CB was originally used to produce South African brandy, but some outstanding quality table wines are now produced all over the Western Cape. Numerous old vineyards have been restored and many younger vineyards have been planted with Chenin by visionary and ambitious winemakers. In the past 15 years, the overall quality improvement of wine production in South Africa has been remarkable. Chenin Blanc is undoubtedly held up as the pride of many South Africa winemakers.

Chenin Blanc originated in the region of Anjou, in the Loire Valley, and more than likely took its name from the monastery of Montchenin in Touraine. Another hypothesis is that the name comes from the French word for dog “chien” and according to an old local legend, 15th-century dogs would regularly have been seen eating the grapes directly from the vines.

The earliest written mention of the name Chenin Blanc dates all the way back to 1534, in the book of “Gargantua” by medieval author François Rabelais.

Loire Valley Chenin Blanc yields the full spectrum. Crémant de Loire, a sparkling wine made using the same vinification technique as champagne, is typically composed of a high proportion of Chenin Blanc. Other high-quality sparkling wines include Vouvray Mousseux and Montlouis-Sur-Loire Mousseux, hailing from the chalk-rich soils of the central Loire Valley and they offer superb value relative to the quality they deliver.

Chenin Blanc is also the heart and soul of some of the finest sweet wines in the world. Much like the legendary wines of Sauternes, the development of noble rot (botrytis cinerea) on the grapes is what allows them to transform into those mythical elixirs in great demand. Noble rot can only develop under certain climatic conditions – humid, misty autumnal mornings followed by warm and dry days. Close proximity to a sufficiently sized body of water is a key feature to allow noble rot to develop. In Sauternes, the river Ciron contributes to the magical development of botrytis while in the region of Anjou, the tributaries of the Loire, such as the Layon and Aubance, encourage proliferation. Look out for names such as Coteaux du Layon, Bonnezeaux or Quarts-de-Chaume. Once again they offer great value.

Finally, the Loire Valley is also home to of some of the most complex and age-worthy dry Chenin Blanc wines in the world. The true chameleon character of the grape is expressed thanks to the complexity of the soils of the region, from tuffeau chalk, schist, to sandstone. Styles range from elegant, ethereal and chiselled to extrovert, powerful and mineral. My personal favourites include wines from the regions of Savennières and Saumur which are currently booming, with wines created by new generations of producers, continuously raising the bar. Chenin captivates in any outfit. “Elegance is not about being noticed but about being remembered”, said Giorgio Armani. He might have been talking about Chenin Blanc. @julie_dupouy

Chenin Blanc wines to try:

Saumur Blanc, Domaine des Sables Verts, €25.95; www.baggotstreetwines.com. 

Vin de France, Terre de l’Elu Roc’h Avel (organic), €30; www.whelehanswines.ie. 

Vin de France, La Lune, Ferme de la Sansonnière (biodynamic), €42; www.siyps.com. 

Vin de France, Confluence, Les Arches de Bellivières, 2018 (organic), €29; www.64wine.ie. 

Chenin Blanc Old Vine, Reserve, Ken Forrester, €17.95; www.obrienswine.ie. 

Chenin Blanc, Botanica, Citrusdal Mountain, €37.90; www.kinnegarwines.com.