I’ve had a special interest in Kate Middleton since she popped up on the radar as Prince William’s girlfriend. As an alumna of St Andrews university, where she studied History of Art, I recognised her student style immediately. She was a “Yah”, not a “Wee Mary” – the latter a derogatory term for anyone channelling geek chic (guilty as charged!).

At St Andrews, “Yah” was code for Sloane Ranger or, in American terms, a preppy, and Kate’s default style has always been sporty, which shows off to perfection her lithe physique. Petit Bateau, Barbour, Boden, J Crew and Ralph Lauren have been her staples while unassuming but expensive handbags, tweed blazers, short skirts with boots, big, green outdoorsy jackets are also part of her arsenal. It’s no wonder Kate chose that aesthetic for her Vogue cover debut in 2016.

I hated the shoot, photographed by Josh Olins and styled by Lucinda Chambers which coincided with Vogue’s centenary year. Though it was not, but should have been, high fashion, it told us everything we needed to know about Kate. One of her friends has reportedly revealed that all she ever wanted was the ultimate country life, with plenty of children and an AGA oven. Privately, she has undoubtedly achieved this pastoral idyll at Amner Hall in Norfolk, but publicly she has had to navigate more complex sartorial codes.

Firstly, she was a royal girlfriend for ten years. The “Waity Katy” years were often revealing. For me, the highlight of these years were her “revenge dressing” strategy when she briefly broke up with Prince William and showed her sass. She went clubbing in London boîtes such as Boujis, Kitts and Mahiki, and to film premieres in hot pants and sequins. Rather than look as devastated as she undoubtedly felt, she showed how to make high street brands look fabulous. H&M, Topshop and Zara were often name-checked in her pap shots. Take note, this strategy clearly worked wonders: Prince William soon realised what he was missing.

Upon her marriage to Prince William in 2011, Kate’s wedding dress was the first indication of her royal style – polished and ladylike. Designed by Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton, her dress featured long lace sleeves, a nipped-in waist, a full skirt and a nine-foot-long train. The lace detailing entwined the Tudor rose, the Irish shamrock, the Scottish thistle and the Welsh daffodil. “Miss Middleton wished for her dress to combine tradition and modernity with the artistic vision that characterises Alexander McQueen’s work,” the palace said in a statement at the time.

After such a faultless start, in the early years of marriage, I often lamented her style, especially for royal visits, state engagements and red carpet events. Kate relied heavily on the high street, favouring affordable brands such as Reiss and LK Bennett, and often referenced Diana, Princess of Wales. Though these choices signalled that she was respectful and relatable, they did not demonstrate she was style icon in my opinion.

There were several fashion faux pas too – inappropriate hemlines, too many jeggings, an over reliance on “theme” dressing and bad shoes (lots and lots of nude platforms and espadrilles). She also seemed to be dressing ten years ahead of her actual age, if not more. My theory is she was being styled by her mother Carole and sister Pippa. This has been demonstrated via her reliance on the “coat dress”. Something of a style signifier for Carole, these ultra-safe pieces cover everything and never slip or fly up. Alexander McQueen and Catherine Walker have created several of these which the thrifty Kate restyles with different accessories from hats to handbags.

Fortunately, I noticed a definite shift in gear when Kate started to use the services of an actual stylist. Natasha Archer, switched from Kate’s PA to stylist in 2007, and she is credited with helping her aesthetic move on from “girl next door” to elegant princess. Standouts moments include a lilac Grecian column dress from a BAFTA event in Los Angeles in 2014. Tatler magazine observed in 2019: “Her neutral, functional wardrobe has been replaced by splashes of vibrant colour and pattern,” citing examples like a purple pussy bow shirt by Gucci and an Alexander McQueen floral violet gown.

The evolution from Kate to Catherine took a further upturn when Archer went on maternity leave in 2019. Virginia “Ginnie” Chadwyck-Healey came on board (clearly another Sloane!), and she helped Catherine break out the occasional unexpected look. Many have said that Meghan Markle also played a part in Catherine’s rapid style evolution, seen in her experimentation from cropped trousers to off-the-shoulder necklines and more daring accessories, particularly jewellery. While she hasn’t abandoned British designers, Catherine’s wardrobe now includes pieces by Dolce & Gabbana, Rochas and Alessandra Rich. She has also incorporated more playful prints and buzzy brands such as The Vampire’s Wife, which she wore on her most recent visit to Ireland, and even gave Gossip Girl-style headbands a go.

Most recently, she dazzled on the No Time To Die red carpet in a caped gold Jenny Packham evening gown for the occasion – a flawless fashion moment which perhaps signalled Catherine is ready to step more definitively into the spotlight, rather than remain a low-key, modest mum of three. I do hope so, and look forward to more fashion experimentation in her future – after all, she has a model’s height, body and beauty.

A not inconsiderable part of her style evolution has been a change in make-up and hairstyles too from loose up-dos to feline flicks. Tick. Tick. Recent photos have shown Catherine has not only gained in confidence and found her an age-appropriate groove and elegance, but also, (whisper it!) seems to be having fun too. That’s something to celebrate surely.

Main featured image via @dukeandduchessofcambridge. Photograph by @alexbramall.