The combination of glamour and grit, culture and creativity, make Naples an interesting weekend getaway …
Formerly, many tourists flew into Naples airport and quickly passed through the city en route to the Amalfi Coast or to take a ferry to one of the idyllic islands off its coast. Now more, than ever, the city itself is the main attraction. Designers such as Vivienne Westwood, Dolce & Gabbana, Rixo, Zara and Etro have all photographed campaigns on the streets of Naples and have been inspired by the city’s glamour and grit.
Trudi Styler’s latest film Posso Entrare? An Ode To Naples is one of the many interesting premieres at Dublin International Film Festival this year, now available on Disney+. Not only does it shine a light on the culture and creativity of the city, but also its chaos and criminal neglect. The film confirmed what I believe; Naples might not be love at first sight – it wasn’t for me – but it is seductive.
On my last visit, I was inspired its energy and style (as well as independent boutiques and pre-loved fashion outlets). And if Bologna is regarded as the culinary capital of Italy, Naples is a close second. Of course, it’s famous for its pizza (try its traditional pizza di scarola – a pizza pie more like a panino with olives, capers, anchovies, pine nuts and raisins) but its seafood and café culture is worth shouting about too. Here is where to stay …

Casa d’Anna ai Cristallini
Best for: An authentic Neapolitan experience
The Sanità neighbourhood in Naples is chaotic – a mix of crumbling palazzos, market stalls, grocery shops, cafés and bars, noisy locals and buzzing vespas. This may appeal to some, but not others. If you are in the former camp, Casa d’Anna is a chance to see how posh locals live. Casa d’Anna comprises five arty rooms, named after local islands, some with balconies, all with beds dressed in Frette sheets. There is a kitchen for guests to use too, which is handy if you don’t feel like dining out all holiday. Do visit the Orto Botanico and Capodimonte museum, both closeby, as is the famous pizzeria Concettina ai Tre Santi. www.casadanna.it

San Francesco Al Monte
Best for: Art and views
This hotel is a former monastery which overlooks the Gulf of Naples. Guests can see fragments of frescoes, ancient majolica and decorations in every corner of the hotel. There’s also an ongoing exhibition curated by the Morra Foundation, promoting contemporary international and Neapolitan artists such as Domenico Spinosa, Errico Ruotolo and Herman Nitsch. The roof garden (open for lunch from May to September) on the fourth floor has a panoramic view over the city. www.sanfrancescoalmonte.it

Artemisia Domus Giardino
Best for: Tranquility and lush gardens
This former 16th-century palazzo hosted John Keats and Queen Marie Clothilde of France in its heyday. Now its minimalist rooms (named after Artemesia Gentileschi paintings) and magical garden (and spa) provide respite from the busy streets outside. www.artemisiadomuscollection.com

Grand Hotel Saint Lucia
Best for: Value, comfort and convenience
The vibe is elegant and airy in this historic four-star hotel, which dates back to 1906. Rooms offer amazing sea views, and as the hotel is a short drive from Teatro San Carlo and Mergellina station, it means all of the main sites are easily accessible. For people watching, consider a visit to Gran Caffe Gambrinus, Leopoldo, or Patisserie Capparelli – all close to the hotel. www.santalucia.it

Grand Hotel Vesuvio
Best for: Seafront promenades and old world elegance
Right on the pedestrianised seafront (or lungomare) overlooking the Gulf of Naples, the island of Capri and Mount Vesuvius, this hotel is grand in all senses of the word. Rooms are elegant and spacious with air conditioning (not always a given in Italy), linen sheets and in-house Echia toiletries. Other features include an indoor swimming pool, fitness and wellness centre as well as Echia Spa. The Caruso Roof Garden Restaurant on the ninth floor is a great place for a special dinner. From April to October, the Sky Lounge Solarium & Cocktail bar opens and is perfect for aperitivos. www.vesuvio.it

The Dante House
Best for: Upscale B&B and family stays
The Dante House overlooks Piazza Dante at Port’Alba, one of the historic city gates marking the boundaries of the old town, an easy walk to the most famous sights in Naples’ historic centre and just steps from the Dante metro stop for excursions further afield. There are six spacious rooms, with balconies overlooking the piazza, all blending mid-century-inspired furnishings, statement lights and antiques. The smallest rooms sleep three guests and the largest up to six. Other facilities include a shared kitchen, washing machine and kettles. Breakfast is a highlight and small snacks are served throughout the day. Check out The Dante House’s sister properties The Bellini House and The Foria House too. www.houseinnaples.it

Grand Hotel Parker’s
Best for: An iconic stay
This hotel is something of an institution in Naples, having been in business for three centuries – former guests have included Virginia Woolf and Lenin. It has 67 rooms and suites, decorated with antiques and precious period features. Gourmets will know its Michelin-starred restaurant George, where chef Domenico Candela’s dazzling dishes match the 360 views from the restaurant. If visiting the city, make haste for the hotel’s Bidder Terrace for cocktails (the mixologist’s menu is dedicated to James Bond) and upscale nibbles. www.en.grandhotelparkers.it

Caruso Place – Boutique & Wellness Suites
Best for: Art Deco charm and centrality
Caruso Place is in Naples city centre, within a pedestrian area, a stone’s throw away from landmarks such as the Maschio Angioino Castel, the San Carlo Theater, Via Chiaia, the Royal Palace and Plebiscito Square. The hotel offers a range of air-conditioned rooms and suites. The private bathrooms are a highlight, featuring chromotherapy showers and Bulgari amenities. www.carusoplace.com