Ireland has long been recognised for the quality of its sheep herd. According to Bord Bia, there were 2.64 million breeding ewes registered in Ireland in the census of December 2020. The same year, 70 per cent of total exports of Irish sheep, valued at €260m, went to other EU members – France being the biggest importer.

However, Ireland is still a very small player when it comes to global lamb production with countries such as China, Australia, New Zealand and Turkey some of the top producing nations, each yielding hundreds of thousands of metric tons of sheep meat each year.

Though in my humble opinion, when it comes to quality, Irish lamb is undoubtedly the most consistent. I grew up in France never really understanding the great demand for lamb. I was convinced that lamb, with its strong flavours and woolly-textured meat, was not for me. I could just about tolerate it in a Moroccan tagine, coated in a deep sauce full of aromatic spices.

It took my husband convincing me to try new season Irish lamb rack for me to change my mind. A moment of revelation. The rack was small in size, the meat light in colour and glistening, and the cap of fat was thin and well rendered. Although known by the same name, it had no obvious connection at all to the almost goat-like lamb I had known from my childhood.

Not only does the age of the animal play an important role in the taste profile and intensity – a young lamb will always taste milder and more delicate than an older animal – but so do the different cuts. A rack will never be as strong as a leg or shoulder meat and it is therefore very important to adapt the cooking method and recipe to the cuts you plan to enjoy but also the wine you will enjoy with it.

Some cuts such as rack or rump are great for roasting. Ask your butcher to prepare it for you by trimming any excess fat. Colour the rack in a pan, on very high heat, with a generous amount of sea salt. A few minutes before removing the rack, add a few knobs of butter, garlic and thyme and baste the meat as the butter foams. Transfer it to a low oven and continue cooking to your desired temperature, basting every so often and throughout ten minutes of resting after removing it from the oven.

Thymol is an aromatic molecule common to both thyme and lamb. That is why Mediterranean red wines, packed with robust flavours of scrubland and herbs, make for some of the most interesting lamb and wine pairings. Look out for Southern Rhône wines, wines from Provence, Corsica, Southern Italy, Western Spain and Greece – there are many delicious options out there offering great value for money.

One of my all-time favourite ways to prepare lamb leg or shoulder meat, which are stronger in flavour, is in a curry. I absolutely love the association of flavours that happens when you slow-cook tomato, aromatic spices and curry leaves together with lamb. Interestingly, oaked white wines seem to be the best match despite the meat element as the oak spicing links nicely with the flavours of curry leaves and other spices to offer a bright and harmonious experience. What better time to give Chardonnay with some well-judged oak ageing a go? Look for Australian or American options for their big bright characters and generous aromatic nature.

Confit lamb shoulder, which is relatively inexpensive, is an absolute treat and well worth trying. Gently poached for 2-3 hours in a bath of warm oil, the meat will fall from the bone. Drain it to remove the excess oil and then finish it however you like – grilled on the barbecue or baked with a herb crust until lightly coloured. Serve it with a variation of fresh and green spring flavours to balance the richness of the meat – broad beans, snap peas and fresh mint is a beautiful combination. Regarding the wine option, choose light, vibrant and fruit-forward red wines such as Pinot Noir from the Loire Valley, Burgundy or New Zealand. High quality Gamay-based wines from the crus of Beaujolais are another good option and particularly good value.

Each season there is some really top tier produce I look forward to and they can come with a cost. I usually prefer to eat them a little less often and pay a little extra for better quality when the time comes. Irish lamb, from a young animal, undoubtedly sits in the top spot for spring.

@juliedupouy1@julie_dupouy

MEDITERRANEAN RED WINES TO GO WITH LAMB

Salento IGP, Negroamaro, L’Archetipo, Niuru Maru (organic) €23.50; www.greenmanwines.ie. 

Corbières Boutenac, Château Fabre Gasparets, €25; www.whelehanswines.ie. 

Vin de France, Cocolico, Colline de L’Hirondelle (organic), €19.95; www.mitchellandson.com. 

Turner Pageot Le Rouge (organic) €25; www.blackrockcellar.com.

Cannonau di Sardegna DOC, Olianas (organic), €25; www.h2gwines.ie. 

Patrimonio AOP, E Croce, Yves Leccia (organic), €35; www.siyps.com.