6 Bottles of Pinots Noir, Gris and Blanc We Recommend

Julie Dupouy explores these related wines and recommends some to pick up now …

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Over the centuries, vignerons have managed to propagate grape varieties by taking cuttings or by layering the vines. This technique consists in burying a grapevine cane deep in the soil until it sprouts roots. Once the roots are established and the plant can survive on its own, the connecting cane is cut off.

When the parent vines of a particular grape are crossed, they produce a completely new grape variety each time – much like the offspring of any parents. (Aren’t we all different to our siblings?). This is why the practice of cutting and layering has been so important to the wine industry.

Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling are all noble grape varieties used to make some of the world’s great wines. Each of them was born, centuries ago, through natural cross-pollination. Cabernet Sauvignon, for example, is the offspring of the two varieties, Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc.

Over time, vine propagation results in subtle changes within the grapevine DNA itself. Most of these mutations will remain invisible but, now and again, they can become obvious. Some plants might become more resistant to certain disease or the opposite – more fragile. Others might develop larger or smaller berries or ripen earlier or later. These recognised mutations are called clones and the most interesting of them are named (or numbered), propagated and preserved. For example, Chardonnay has various clones, such as the Mendoza Clone, or Clone 75. Unless crossed with another vine type, these clones will maintain their unique characteristics and so will the wines they produce.

Like most things in life, there are exceptions to the rules and the grapes Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc are unique in that regard. They are all clonal descendants of the same parent vines, but over time, mutations have affected some of their characteristics with the most obvious one being their skin colour. From a DNA perspective they are identical but wine-lovers can appreciate their great differences through the wines produced from them.

Pinot Blanc, also known as Weissburgunder in German- speaking countries, is still, in my opinion, widely underrated. From light, crisp and floral to creamy, nuanced and mineral, it is a chameleon grape with an ability to also produce some excellent sparkling wines in the region of Alsace. Some of the best examples I have tasted come from Burgenland in Austria and Alto Adige in Italy.

When the parent vines of a particular grape are crossed, they produce a completely new grape variety…

Pinot Gris can be produced as a white wine but also as a rosé when left to macerate with its pink-tinted skins. The styles produced vary from dry, light, crisp and fruity Italians, labelled Pinot Grigio, to full-bodied, tropical and spicy and even decadently sweet, intense and complex when harvested late. Alsace is one of the centres of production for Pinot Gris, where it is classically paired with creamy white meat dishes, cheese or frogs’ legs cooked in butter, garlic and parsley. In Germany, drier, sleeker styles are labelled as Grauburgunder while the richer, more fragrant versions are generally called Ruländer. New Zealand also produces some world-class Pinot Gris wines. I personally find Kiwi Pinot Gris mostly delicious, combining the crisp acidity of Italian Pinot Grigio, the floral and elegant aromatic profile of its German counterparts and the creamy texture of its Alsatian cousins.

Last but not least, Pinot Noir – the epitome of elegance and seduction. Planted in cool climate areas, young Pinot Noir wines are vibrant, red fruit-driven and have an incredible ability to translate the minerality from the soil they are grown on. Wait a few years for them and their perfume, complexity and refinement put them right at the summit of the wine world.

The Côtes d’Or, in Burgundy, is the true kingdom of Pinot Noir and produces many legendary names such as La Romanée Conti, La Tâche or the wines of Chambertin. These wines are sadly out of reach for most people because of their price, but thankfully there are many more Pinot Noir wines of quality to be enjoyed. The southern part of Burgundy offers a bit more value for money and appellations such as Givry, Rully and Mercurey make some delicious wines with a far more manageable price tag. Pinot Noir also expresses itself in splendid ways in Germany (where it is called Spätburgunder), Austria, Oregon, Ontario, the coastal areas of Chile, New Zealand and the regions of Tasmania and Victoria in Australia. Let us not forget its significant contribution to the Champagne region where it plays a supporting role in most non-vintage blends and a lead role in the famous Blanc de Noirs.

As you can probably read between these lines, Pinot Noir and I go way back. A first love in wine terms but fortunately, a love I get to share. @juliedupouy