The high priestess of cool, the hype around Phoebe Philo’s new eponymous collection is real. But what of the clothes? With more than half of the pieces sold out since the launch just yesterday, it’s a case of what’s left to shop. These pieces stand out …
Chic tote or carry all to include the kitchen sink? In the case of Phoebe Philo’s new eponymous fashion range a handbag can be both. And we say, amen! The trend for XL bags has been abounding the last few seasons and we have no doubt that Philo’s nod to practicality will ensure it gets more airtime in seasons to come. Mind you, in Philo’s case these pieces are an investment. The XL Cabas bag in suede with tonal leather lining and stitching will cost you a cool €6k. Black suede Cabas bag, €6,400; www.phoebephilo.com.
A tailored coat with a masculine edge is de rigueur right now, and it’s no surprise that Philo has nodded to this look in her new collection (she also leaned into this kind of outerwear during her tenure at Céline). In this collection it’s all about wearing borrowed-from-the-boys shapes with something contrasting like a silk-satin dress or intensely textured hand-combed trousers that nod to Big Bird. When it comes to colours, the concrete shade sets the tone – much of the collection is black, grey, white or khaki, with the exception of an embroidered dress and a patent ankle boot in fluoro and blood red respectively. Concrete grey Man’s coat, €3,300; www.phoebephilo.com.
Patent white heels
Another Philo classic is the re-emergence of patent white high heels. Once considered the antithesis of great style, the designer made white footwear cool again in her collections at Céline that were at once polished and feminine and cool (no easy feat). These new interpretations have a distinct wide front, a short square toe and are made from a supple leather that allows the shape of the foot to show through. White patent leather pumps, €990; www.phoebephilo.com.
Hints of the unexpected
It would be remiss to call Phoebe Philo’s new collection classic as, even though a lot of the pieces nod to classic designs that will live in your wardrobe, potentially, for decades, there is always something unexpected. A case in point are these trousers which go heavy on texture for a decidedly outré look. The texture isn’t actually feathers, rather it’s described as a “hand-combed embroidery on a ribbon base”. What’s even cooler is that they’re worn loose in a pyjama fit, and paired with a pinstripe shirt. It’s this mix of dressy and casual that is the very spirit of high-low dressing, and a testament of why the Philo woman is so elusive and bloody cool. Black glossy viscose twill tailored trousers, €3,800; www.phoebephilo.com.
Philo loves a good scarf – during her tenure at Céline, models wore hooded scarves or silken neckerchiefs in vivid prints. This collection features inbuilt scarf detailing on trench coats and silk-satin tops (fans of Totême’s cult draped fringe jacket with inbuilt scarf will appreciate this). The look is interesting and quite cool, and perhaps comes into its own when paired with a tailored blazer in the same shade of black (see the main image above). You’re unsure if the scarf belongs to the top or the coat but, either way, the effect is chic. Khaki wool trench coat with attachable scarf, €4,500; www.phoebephilo.com.