These retro dishes are certainly a blast from the past, but have stood the test of time, with some even considering them classics …
Hands up who remembers your favourite dishes from yesteryear? I’m talking Chicken Maryland (whoever came up with that idea was a genius), another inventive use of bananas in fritter form and, of course, the famous Duck à l’Orange. Here are five dishes that will take you right back.
Duck à l’Orange – L’Gueuleton, Dublin
According to culinary historians, Duck à l’Orange has its roots in Medieval Italy, as opposed to being a French creation. Regardless, it is positively a French classic today. The dish itself became popular in the 1960s, but the first actual recorded recipe was in the 19th century when it was called ‘duck à la bigarade’ (bitter orange). You will find many incarnations in French restaurants, but the L’Gueuleton version appeals to me for the light-handed treatment the often cloying sauce is given. www.lgueuleton.com
Deep-Fried Crispy Brie (or Carbonara!) – Michael’s, Blackrock
If you were to whisper three little words to me, please make them ‘deep fried brie’! Long before we discovered saganaki and well before Nigella made mozzarella in carrozza a thing, we had mouth-wateringly tasty deep-fried brie. Usually served with a fruity sauce on the side, chunks of breaded brie were deep-fried until golden and I’m sure many novices (myself included) burnt the roof of their mouth due to sheer eagerness to try it. It was, and always will be, worth it. When on the menu, the version in Michael’s is an ode to those innocent days, with parcels of deep-fried melted cheesiness served with a drizzle of honey, crispy onion and hazelnuts. We’re also partial to the carbonara there, but that’s for another day. https://michaels.ie
Tournedos Rossini – Picasso, Clontarf
Named after 19th century composer Gioachino Rossini, Tournedos Rossini was apparently created by his friend, chef Casimir Moissons. N’est pas, the dish itself consists of a round of beef fillet (or the tournedos, if you will) served with a slice of toasted bread, topped with foie gras and finished with a Madeira jus. The Tournedos Rossini at Picasso’s in Clontarf is topped with chicken liver pate in place of foie gras, but it’s still a devilishly decadent dish. www.picassorestaurant.ie
Sole Caprice – The Lobster Pot, Dublin
There are plenty of old school dishes to choose from at The Lobster Pot in Ballsbridge, but the recent photo of Dover Sole Caprice that popped up on my social feed transported me back to the 1980s (maybe even the ’70s). Honestly, I have never heard of this dish before, but anything that consists of breaded paupiettes of sole-wrapped banana, served with rich mango chutney sauce, has to be retro! It is certainly reminiscent of the aforementioned Chicken Maryland. I might just have to visit to find out. www.thelobsterpot.ie
Banana Fritters – various locations
I still remember the taste of my first banana fritter when I was young(er). If memory serves, it was in the long-lamented Kingsland Restaurant on Dame Street. The idea of combining bananas and batter was alien to me, but I was immediately hooked. Full disclosure, I don’t think I have repeated the experience in 30 years. but I still understand the appeal. These days, many Chinese restaurants will offer plastic penguins filled with ice cream (hello Punky) or frozen orange shells filled with sorbet and, while I appreciate the novelty factor, the banana fritter with honey and sesame seeds will always be the nostalgia-driven dessert for me. Today, you will find them at The Chilli Club, Baan Thai and Madame Pho, among others. @madamephodublin
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