Dining alone or as a duo? Counter suppers are convivial, cosy and casual. Ciara McQuillan finds places to perch in Dublin …
ELEVEN
COUNTER CULTURE Restaurateur John Farrell’s latest baby, above Whelehan’s Wines, features a zinc-topped counter with 20 seats facing the bar, with its energetic cocktail-making show. Three-legged stools are backless but nicely cushioned. The decor is rustic with rugs underfoot making it feel cosy.
ON THE PLATE The menu (currently dinner only) is made up of Small Plates (aka starters), Mains, Wood Burning (from the woodfired grill) and Sharing, with roasts on a Sunday, 1pm-4pm. For my money, it would have to be the grilled prawns with lemon and herb oil or the sharing Dover sole. Desserts are currently limited to one, a Sauternes crème caramel with soaked raisins, and a selection of cheese.
ELBOW IN Counter dining can be booked. Enjoy Oyster Happy Hour, Wednesday to Friday, while lunch on Wednesday to Friday and Saturday Brunch are coming soon. Eleven, Bray Road, Loughlinstown, Co Dublin, 01 239 3471; www.elevendublin.ie.
HANG DAI
COUNTER CULTURE The neon-clad bar at Hang Dai, runs the full length of the restaurant. There the menu is served and orders are taken by a dedicated server, eliminating the stress of trying to catch the attention of busy bar staff.
ON THE PLATE Beijing wood-roasted duck is Hang Dai’s signature dish and it’s very good. I would also leave room for dumplings, cheeseburger spring rolls and sesame toast. Baked crab rice with grilled corn is next on my list to try.
ELBOW IN The Gold Bar, on the first floor, also has seven bar counter dining seats in a more intimate dining space with views of the city from the adjacent terrace. Hang Dai, 20 Lower Camden Street, Dublin 2, 01 545 8888; www.hangdaichinese.com.
HAWKSMOOR
COUNTER CULTURE Undoubtedly the most anticipated opening of the year from one of the world’s most-lauded steakhouse groups, Hawksmoor Dublin is likely to be the place to be seen this summer. The high ceilings, brass accents and polished wood give the space a decidedly clubby feel. Just inside the front door, the main bar has eight seats where teal leather upholstered high stools are deep and comfortable and the Pink Gibson cocktails devilishly moreish.
ON THE PLATE Quelle surprise – it’s all about the (Irish grass-fed) beef. But, as with any steakhouse worth its world-class salt, it’s also about the sides, the cocktails, the wine list – and did I mention the sides? The “Dublin Lawyer,” a dish of lobster simmered in cream and whiskey with leeks and Cais na Tire ewes milk cheese will keep pescatarians on side.
ELBOW IN All eight of the bar counter dining seats are reserved for walk-ins, so no need to book weeks (or more likely months) in advance. Hawksmoor, 34 College Green, Dublin 2, 01 485 4720; www.hawksmoor.ie.
ETTO
COUNTER COUTURE Etto is a modest, uncluttered restaurant with stools at both the wood-panelled bar, where the hustle and bustle of busy staff will keep you entertained, and at a floating wall counter. The two counters are tucked away from the main dining room while still affording excellent people-watching opportunities. Note counter stools are comfortable but backless, so bear this in mind if you plan to linger for longer.
ON THE PLATE Start with croquettes or suppli of the day before trying the rabbit with morteau sausage or the any of the very good rotating fish dishes. The côte du boeuf can be tricky to enjoy while perched on a high stool but the Etto version is well worth the risk of spearing your dining companion.
ELBOW IN Choose a counter seat option when booking and you can order from the main menu, with a minimum of three dishes per person required to be ordered. Etto, 18 Merrion Row, Dublin 2, 01 678 8872; www.etto.ie.
BIG MIKES
COUNTER CULTURE Gaz Smith’s Blackrock restaurant is an inviting space with cool lighting, geometric floor tiles and mid-century style fixtures and fittings. The fluted wooden bar with black marble counter feels elegant and comfortable. The eight bar stools are adjustable, with backs, for those who struggle with stools of the backless variety.
ON THE PLATE While the bar menu is less comprehensive than that of the dining room, you won’t be short of options for something excellent to eat. Go for the oysters, a steak, or a cheese and charcuterie plate, and stay for the cocktails, or the buzzy ambiance.
ELBOW IN The bar at Big Mike’s is reservation-free, with solo diners encouraged and welcomed, making it perfect for a last-minute Me, Myself and I midweek indulgence. Big Mike’s, Rock Hill, Blackrock, Co Dublin, 01 551 0332; www.michaels.ie
