Meet five Irish milliners whose designs are being worn at the hotly-anticipated Ladies Day Best Dressed Competition at The RDS Dublin Horse Show this week…
Main Image; Milliner Emily Jean and model
EMILY-JEAN O’BYRNE
Background: “I began my creative career studying jewellery design at the University of Central England, where I received my Higher National Diploma and a special commendation from the British Jewellers Association. I went on to study millinery at the London College Of Fashion, where I had internships with well known milliners. The highlight was living in Paris and working at Maison Michel, the official milliner for the house of Chanel.”
My designs: “I have a keen eye for colour which I use when designing hats. My own hat style depends on the occasion. As a wedding guest I usually opt for a simple structured headpiece or an easy-to-wear headband. For a race day meet, I tend to be more adventurous, and love a wide brimmed picture hat with sculpted plumes!”
On what makes a good statement hat: “Colour and scale. Strong vibrant colours are always a good start.”
This year’s trends: “Crowns and a halo-style headwear are trending. I have designed my own version of this called The Venus Crown and it has been very successful this season.”
Career highlights: “A trio standout for me: being a participant in the Fashion Innovation Awards 2016, the winner of the business award in Network Ireland 2020, and just last week, winner of the Best Hat at the Galway Races 2023.”@emilyjeanatelier www.emily-jean.com
CAROL KENNELLY
Background: “For me, millinery began as a hobby. After winning the Best Dressed competition at the Galway Races in 2008 wearing a hat I made myself, I used my cash prize to take a millinery course to learn the finer details of my hobby. I launched Carol Kennelly Millinery in 2010.”
My hat style is: “Decadent jewellery, intricate beadwork, exotic feathers, vintage-inspired designs incorporating playful whimsy with a modern twist … this is Carol Kennelly Millinery.”
On what makes a great hat for a Best Dressed competition: “A great ladies’ day hat needs to be original, contain a level of drama while crucially always being elegant. It needs to look interesting from all angles, as it will be photographed from all angles. Usually my ladies’ day customers begin with the hat. However, if the rest of their outfit is very dramatic, then the hat comes after the outfit.”
Career highlights: “My designs have been worn by the Best Dressed Lady at the Dublin Horse Show on three occasions, Best Hat at the Dublin Horse Show twice, Best Dressed Lady at the Galway Races on three occasions, as well as multiple ladies’ day wins across Ireland and as far away as Melbourne, California, Philadelphia and the UK.” www.carolkennellymillinery.com
MICHELLE KEARNS
Background: “I qualified in interior architecture in 2008; unfortunately at the end of that summer we went into recession and there wasn’t any work. By 2012 career opportunities in my field were still far and few between so I booked a few different night courses to pass the time and retrain in some sort of creative field. At the time I was a single mum to Jacob, 5, so an hour here and there doing a night course was a better option than the full-time commitment of college. My very first course was in Beginners Millinery Sinamay Introduction. It was just over an hour, one day a week, for six weeks. After that I was hooked. From this foundation course, I learned through experimenting and trial and error.”
My hat style: “I create so many different styles from the traditional blocked beret or pillbox to the structured feather and wire work or handmade leather roses. At the moment I’d say my work is recognised by its structural silhouettes of feathers where the piece would appear to be floating. There is a lot of unseen work and engineering that goes into putting the piece together to make it appear effortless.”
What comes first a hat or an outfit? “I’ve had customers do both. I’ve had customers work their outfit around one of my ready to wear pieces. They pick a colour or element out of the headpiece and work their outfit to suit the headpiece and it becomes the focus or quietly complements it. Either way works, it’s all about how you put it together and accessorise with shoes, jewellery and hairstyle.”
My current collection: “In my own work, I am focusing on sculptural floating feather pieces, both big and small.”
Career highlights: “I’ve had a few winners of Best Dressed competitions over the years all over the country. My first big win was at Punchestown with Ann Marie Phelan in 2017. I’ve also have women placed in competitions in Dubai and Australia.” @michelle_kearns_designs www.michellekearnsdesigns.com
GRÁINNE MAHER
Background: “I can distinctly remember being inspired by a magazine shoot with Philip Treacy hats back in the Noughties, and just being mesmerised with how these fabulous creations managed to stay on the model’s head! They were a feat of engineering, and that was enough to pique my interest and so I began to investigate how to make hats. That was 15 years ago.”
My hat style: “I adore all manner of hat shapes and sizes, but personal favourites are leather halo styles and fine straw boaters. I have created a distinctive glassy flower collection called ‘Bláthanna gloine’ which is currently on sale in Brown Thomas Dublin, or made to order. It’s a delicate, striking range of glass-like flowers, hand-painted and made using fine jewellery wire and other millinery materials.”
For competitions – do you advise getting the hat first or after the outfit? “In my experience people tend to get the outfit sorted first and then approach a couture milliner or hat hire company to colour match with their outfit. I have of course done it the other way round too though as sometimes a person will simply fall in love with a particular headpiece and want to wear it!”
Current trends: “Headbands and headpieces mounted on hairbands show no sign of disappearing anytime soon, as they suit most face shapes and add a bit of height which is always flattering. I have noticed a surge in big hat requests too though; the more traditional hat with a crown and brim being more popular every year, especially boater hats or other styles with a flat brim.”
Career highlights: “Last year my hats were worn by the winners of Listowel Races in Kerry, Down Royal in Co Down and the Sligo Racecourse ladies day.” @grainnemaherdesign www.grainnemaher.co.uk
LAURA HANLON
Background: “I got into millinery by chance. In 2019, I made a little piece for my first ever race meeting and was selected as a finalist. From then on I have been hooked on the creating headwear! I started my career with Lina Stein who is an amazing teacher and is so generous with her knowledge. I then went onto Grafton Academy in Dublin and continue to do online courses to update my skills.”
My hat style: “I would describe my style as unique, curating modern millinery using unusual materials.”
When entering competitions … “I always choose the outfit first and then make a hat to complement it. I usually go for block colours for my dress to allow for a strong statement hat.”
Current trends: “No styles are trending in millinery in my opinion, people are dressing to express their individual style from 1950s pill boxes to wide brim hats to show stopping headwear.”
Highlights: “My hats have adorned heads on the winning enclosures and finalists from Co Cork to Co Down. It’s such a treat to see my hats on Best Dressed ladies including Galway best dressed 2018, 2019 and 2022 and Dublin Horse Show Best Dressed winner in 2019.” @laura.hanlon.designer
