Hot pink, pockets, pants suits and pjs are trending for weddings this year, says Penny McCormick …
One of the most Instaworthy weddings of recent months was that of Genevieve Morano Campori, founder of Strange Field Flowers which specialises in reworking dried flowers into dramatic floral sculptures. Campori chose Vivienne Westwood’s dramatic “Birds of Paradise” gown (as featured in Sex and the City) in a golden colour. No doubt Westwood’s bridal collection will be popular this year as a homage to the late Queen of Punk. Westwood’s edginess, her famous corsetry and the brand’s eco credentials chimes with the current trend of prioritising sustainability and pushing back against anything unnecessarily wasteful. The brand’s made-to-order pieces are available in recycled ivory tulle and FSC-certified viscose. A new post-wedding service also allows brides to transform gowns into pieces they’ll wear for many years to come.
In a similarly sustainable vein, Irish stylist Isabel Gleeson has just launched a wedding dress resale platform connecting past brides to future brides. Gleeson explains, “Simply upload an image of your dress (for €20) and connect with potential buyers, while keeping the commission!” www.rebride.ie. Future-proofed designs, rather than the wear-once wow dress, are also trending.
Two-piece dresses (at Galvan London, Scorcesa and Safi yaa), transitional skirts (at Rixo and Sharon Hoey) and bridal trousers suits (such as Louise Kennedy’s Clara blazer and Gigi trousers or Emilia Wickstead’s Margarite jumpsuit) are increasingly popular for ceremonies and receptions. In some cases, brides are even opting to wear pjs, though posh silk versions by Olivia von Halle, 16Arlington, Natalie Lieber and Sleepers, or investing in dramatic capes and opera gloves to elevate simple sheath, or negligée-style dresses.
A renewed interest in minimal shapes (à la Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy’s Narciso Rodriguez slip dress) doesn’t mean that brides won’t be experimenting with textures and (increasingly sheer) fabrics, or challenging the norm via colour choices. Viva Magenta, Pantone’s colour of the year, is not for shy retiring brides, but it can look spectacular. Designer Rose Uniacke’s daughter, Olive, chose hot pink for her wedding having been inspired by a Dior dress created by Raf Simons and worn by French actress Marion Cotillard. Uniacke’s wedding is on my moodboard for nuptial notes – from the pink Valentino trouser suit she wore to her reception, to the dessert bar, laden with Colin the Caterpillar cakes.
Excessive florals, once a prerequisite of society weddings, are now more likely to be three-dimensional and appliquéd on dresses, rather than in a bouquet. Blossoms – from a skirt full of daisies by cult favourite Rosie Assoulin, and bows, are signature details this year. Viktor & Rolf sprinkled an otherwise simple sheath dress with tiny bows while Oscar de la Renta opted for butterflies.
“Pocketmania” is how Irish designer Helen Cody describes the frequent requests for the addition of pockets from her bespoke clients – echoing current SS23 catwalk trends. “There is something immediately relaxing about making an entrance with hands in pockets,” says Cody, “not to mention having somewhere to put lipstick, tissues and other small necessities for instant touch-ups.” Don’t worry about pockets being bulky or unflattering – more designers are introducing sleek pockets that blend seamlessly with the design and fabric of a gown. The Row has an uber-chic iteration, which will travel well.
That’s a bonus given the continued appeal of elopements; many hotels are now offering elopement packages which take care of photographers, hair and make-up in addition to flowers and accommodation. But where? The overlooked peninsula of Halkidiki in Greece, the historic sunshine island of Malta, the buzzing art-centric Accra, as well as Montevideo, Uruguay, with its laidback beaches and under-the-radar food and wine scene are topping runaway wedding wish lists.