Popping on a cocktail ring is an instant pick-me-up – and good practice for an actual return to cocktail bars. High street stores are awash with faux gem knuckledusters that are molto Elizabeth Taylor. For the real thing and a genuine investment, Claire-Laurence Mestrallet, fine jewellery expert and associate director at Adam’s selects her favourite cocktail rings from the upcoming Fine Jewellery & Watches online auction …
A Coral and Diamond Dress ring, circa 1960
This is a lovely example of a typical 1960’s “’bombé’ cocktail ring. Coral from Sardinia, of this colour, is very sought after and appreciated by connoisseurs. The colour and size of this is particularly good and it is surrounded by brilliant-cut diamonds. Lot 62, Estimate €1,200 – €1,800.
An Amethyst, Coloured Sapphire & Cocktail Ring
This is a fun ring – and I find it’s fun to change rings as you wear different styles of clothes. Popping on a cocktail ring is like putting on some blusher on a no make-up face – an instant illuminator. I’d wear this with a pair of jeans, a T-shirt and some Converse All Stars. Lot 158, Estimate €1,800 – €2,200.
A Lapis Lazuli and Coloured Diamont Ritratto Cocktail Ring by Pomellato
This is a bit of dolce vita and will instantly transport the wearer to Capri or the Amalfi coast! The large lapis lazuli plaque is embellished with two large claws, one pave set with brilliant-cut brown diamonds, mounted on 18K gold. Lot 220; €2,500 – €3,500.
An Aquamarine & Diamond Cocktail Ring, by Cartier, circa 1965
This is a very beautiful, bespoke piece made by Cartier for a client. These aquamarines (the ring is among two other lots, a brooch and a pair of earrings) are worth coming to see at the exhibition; they have a superb, rich colour that is very hard to find in aquamarines. The central cut-cornered rectangular aquamarine weighs approximately 22.00ct and is in a claw setting with a brilliant and baguette-cut diamond frame. This piece will only increase in value over time. Lot 83, Estimate €12,000 – €18,000.
A Fine Diamond Ring by Boucheron Paris, circa 1970
This Boucheron ring is really beautiful. Its value lies in the signature, Boucheron being one of the most prestigious and recognised French jewellery houses of the 21st century. Signed pieces by Boucheron are always sought after by collectors at auction and you can be sure that this ring will always hold its value and is a good, small investment piece. Lot 60, Estimate €5,000 – €7,000.
An Important Spinel & Diamond Cocktail Ring
This ring is for coloured stones enthusiasts and collectors. Spinels are often confused with rubies; this spinel has a beautiful colour and is of significant size. It is an elongated cushion shape within a four claw setting surrounded by brilliant-cut diamonds and diamond shoulders. Spinel prices have tripled at auction in the last decade, as people are investing in alternatives from the usual suspects, emeralds, diamonds, rubies and sapphires. Lot 138, €12,000 – €18,000.
An Aquamarine, Diamond & Lacquer ‘Diorette’ Cocktail Ring, by Dior. Designed by Victoire de Castellane
This is another fun ring – I admire Dior (the designer) and the designer of this collection, Victoire de Castellane, who has a creativity beyond belief. She has created her own universe which might not be for everyone. This piece was designed to “bloom” upon the wearer, mixing the natural with the fantastical, creating a miniature world separate from reality. Lot 142, Estimate €3,500 – €4,500. This piece is still retailed at Dior for €8,900.
A Rare Emerald and Enamel Panther Ring, by Cartier, circa 1980
As I have described in the online catalogue, this ring, designed as two roaring panthers facing each other, embellished with black enamel spots with circular-cut emeralds for eyes mounted on 18K gold, is very rare. These rings hardly ever come up at auction and are no longer made by Cartier. It’s a true vintage piece, with a special provenance. Cartier made many of its panther rings in Italy, but this one was made in France. Moreover, most new panther rings are hollow, this one is a solid gold ring and is a good weight. Lot 110, Estimate €10,500 – €13,500.
An Impressive Tourmaline & Diamond Cocktail Ring, by Margherita Burgener
I love contemporary designers as much as I love retro and antique jewellery. Emanuela Burgener, founder of Margherita Burgener, (named after her first daughter) uses new materials in her designs such as titanium (though not in this case) and has a true love for coloured stones like myself. This tourmaline is fantastic for its colour, size and its very modern and elegant shape. The design is also original yet somehow remains classic and can be worn for any occasion. Lot 153, €7,000 – €8,000.
A Diamond & Lapis Lazuli Ring, by Van Cleef & Arpels
Designed as two butterflies between the finger, this very expensive ring is still made at Van Cleef & Arpels (the retail price is €21,100). When you put it on, it really differentiates itself from other brands – in the quality, in the setting of the stones, the craftsmanship and the design. It really looks like two butterflies have just landed on your hand! Lot 119, Estimate €12,500 – €14,500.
Need To Know: Bidding is currently open for the Fine Jewellery & Watches – Timed Auction and will close on Tuesday 25th May at 5pm. Should you wish to view these rings in person, visitors can do so at Adam’s Irish Art and Fine Art Auctioneers, 26 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2, on Friday from 10am – 5pm, Saturday and Sunday from 1pm – 5pm, Monday 10am – 5pm and Tuesday 10am – 4pm; www.adams.ie.
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