The word is that we’re pulling back on our make-up buying to focus on skincare. Despite the best efforts of beauty companies to tempt us into the newest palette or glittery eyeliner, our make-up stockpiling is slowing; perhaps we’re finally becoming more eco-conscious and buying less, and we’re realising that we actually have enough make-up already – how many palettes does one person actually need?
Skincare sales are soaring, however: in the US, prestige beauty reached $18.8 billion last year, according to The NPD Group, with a focus on ingredients, and what’s actually in (and not in) a skincare product. “The number of [skincare] consumers who are making purchase decisions primarily based on the price of a product is decreasing, as the significance of knowing exactly what they are putting on their skin becomes more important,” says Larissa Jensen, executive director and beauty industry analyst at NPD. “Engaged consumers are looking to become more educated about the ingredients in their skincare regimen, particularly in those more basic products such as cleansers, moisturisers and anti-ageing serums.”
If you’re looking to help your skin look the best it can, whatever age you are, it’s not about that awful “anti-ageing” label and more about protection (from UV, pollution and so on) and enhancing brightness and radiance. At the end of the summer, many of us notice more dark spots on our skin, caused by excess pigmentation, and rather than cover these up with foundation (though new autumn formulations such as Charlotte Tilbury’s new matte-yet-radiant new Airbrush Flawless are pretty good at this), skincare can help alleviate this and bring brightness back.
While discolouration is something many of us only experience as we get older, following too many years of not enough sun screen, UV exposure is not the only cause: darker patches on the skin can result from prescription drugs, hormonal issues or post-acne, and lead to uneven skin tone due to excess melanin being produced. Treatments such as laser and peels are now commonly used to get rid of more stubborn dark patches or spots, but practitioners agree that it’s key to then use correct protection afterwards.
Linda Blahr, national head of training and education for SkinCeuticals, says it’s important to take a “multi-level approach”, and find a bespoke regime to use at home – “and you also need patience – this is not something you can fix overnight.” This brand’s high-tech serums are renowned; if you asked a group of people in the beauty industry what they actually use on their skin day to day, you’d find many of them name-checking SkinCeuticals’ CE Ferulic, a full-strength antioxidant. It’s a key element of even a pared-back skincare routine.The newest SkinCeuticals serum, Discoloration Defense (from September 9, €95) Blend of actives acid known in medical circles – helps to interrupt pigment formation – tranexamic acid. Key ingredient works in concert w vitamin b3 to even skin tone disrupts melanin transfer. Patented molecule amino acid known to be a soft exfoliator, to improve skin tone so multi layer approach. Clinical trials on efficacy and tolerance saw good results after 12 weeks’ use twice a day, (in conjunction with a basic sunscreen) Improving evenness of skin Wide range of ages and skin types Brightens skin and evens quality. Will see results in two weeks but more pronounced over 12 weeks.
So what is the perfect anti-pigmentation regime? In the morning after cleansing, use an antioxidant Phloretin, featuring a triple antioxidant stronger anti than vitamin c. Then New serum discoloration, followed by SPF 30 or 50. At night, serum then Metacell Renewal, a gel cream. If you want add retinol into the mix, use it two/three times a week as a co-pilot to get rid of discoloration – Blahr’s advice is to apply it first onto dry skin and wait 20 mins to absorb. How to use it; Pat on 4/5 drops. “Our formulas absorb very fast not oily so don’t rub around – ideal you would drop it straight from the pipette onto skin,| says Blahr.
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