Warning! Golden Age Incoming

Back to Black? Penny McCormick reports we are on to Gold!

Figuratively, we already know the 88-year-old Italian designer Giorgio Armani has a Midas touch when it comes to crafting effortlessly elegant, easy pieces that originally emancipated both men and women from stiff formal suiting. However, literally, Mr Armani sprinkled gold dust on his SS23 collection (pictured above) which he titled “Fil d’Or” or Golden Thread, elaborating in the show notes: “The essence is a certain purity and the glimmer of gold. There is a very subtle shimmering of gold that crosses the whole collection, giving it a very charming and unique light. A light that calls to mind the sand of the desert.”

Guests, including Cate Blanchett and Lauren Hutton, were treated to gowns sparkling with gold sequins and crystals, billowing shirts layered over trousers worn with gold-tone high–top sneakers. Subtle embellishment was key from beading to embroidery and resin necklaces. This wasn’t Studio 54 disco glamour rather a pared back version of the aesthetic which was complemented by make-up created by Giorgio Armani international make-up artist Linda Cantello. Polished skin, pinky lips, simple hairstyles (like low looped ponytails) and a tiny golden dot on each eye lid were signature looks. Cantello explained: “Pared back luxury has always been the Armani DNA. A pop of pure gold on a softly lined upper lid combined with a minimal perfected complexion is all that’s needed to take us back to the future.”

It’s worth remembering these tips ahead of the forthcoming party season, when gold is one of the classic, seasonal staples. “The Golden Age” is the name of Rixo’s AW22 collection inspired by 1930s Hollywood glamour. The inclusive collection (ranging from size 6-24) includes mini and maxi dresses, skirts, blouses, and iconic styles such as the Kelly skirt, Melanie dress and Moss blouse, many in molten metallics. These are sound investments given that the hue is liable to be a spring staple too.

Be careful though. Gold fabric can be distracting and a little tacky if not styled properly. “We suggest pairing your gold Rixo pieces with some statement vintage gold jewellery if you’re after a real party look. Shoe-wise, you can’t go wrong with a pair of black strappy heels – our Ciervo heels are the perfect match,” advise the brand co-founders Henrietta Rix and Orlagh McCloskey.

As for Mr Armani’s advice: “A few years ago it was out of place to wear outfits with paillettes during the day, but now it is accepted. The important thing is to wear it well.”