Perfumers Are Putting Their Best Floral Forward This Spring

Beauty Editor SARAH HALLIWELL on the SHOW-STOPPING modern FLORALS that resist the VALENTINE‘s clichés …

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Naturally, there’s a profusion of florals around for spring, and not just on the catwalks. Perfumers are always looking at ways to make floral scents with an air of modernity rather than powdery grandmother. Show-stopping modern florals that resist the Valentine’s clichés include YSL’s Black Orchid Floral Shock (€81), a profusion of freesia and gardenia notes laced with an unexpected mineral sea breeze accord and a hint of iced coffee. Lancôme are also putting their best floral forward with a new twist on La Vie est Belle, La Vie est Belle Bouquet de Printemps (limited edition from February 22), resonates with intriguing notes of pear and patchouli alongside the lavish jasmine, iris and lily of the valley. And L’Occitane have come up with a gourmand floral which balances floral notes with a warm sweetness. Gourmand scents, with “edible” notes, aren’t for everyone: not all of us want to smell like candyfloss, although super-sweet scents continue to be popular with younger customers. “Terre de lumière is a fresh aromatic gourmand,” explains one of its three female perfumers, Calice Becker (the genius behind J’Adore for Dior and Tommy Girl, as well as several of the luxury By Kilian perfumes). By blending the most special “floral, feminine” French lavender with warm honey, beeswax and tonka bean, they aimed to capture the “golden hour” in Provence, when the sun is lowering and the earth is warm. L’Occitane’s research found that “calm and serenity” are the most important things in a fragrance for women, and so green tea and bergamot injects fresh air and light into this scent. “It’s the French lavender that makes it fly and explode,” notes Becker. The ingredients are sustainable, and the very best. “We spent a lot of time going to where the crops are, to be sure that, when extracted, we have the very best of them, and to remember their origins,” notes Becker. How timely: a walk on the warm side, bottled. From €65.

SARAH HALLIWELL

This article appeared in a previous issue, for more features like this don’t miss our next issue, out Saturday, March 4.

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