8 months ago

Mary Dowey’s Bottle of the Week: An Organic White Burgundy

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Bertrand Ambroise Lettre d’Eloïse Chardonnay, Coteaux Bourguignons 2017

Not everybody likes red wine with turkey, or indeed with anything much else. In any case you may need to stock up with a stylish, versatile white – the kind of thing that will suit a first course of smoked salmon as well as a wide spectrum of mains, vegetarian dishes included. This creamy organic Burgundy is the answer.

Lettre d’Eloïse was a star at our Christmassy Gloss wine dinner in The Merrion hotel in late November, served with a root vegetable salad. It’s definitely a white wine to enjoy with food rather than to sip as an aperitif. Alongside notes of apple, lemon and subtle spice with an attractive little hint of earthiness, you’ll notice a smooth, creamy texture and a medium body. These are achieved through fermentation and maturation in large oak barrels – most of them previously used for one, two or three vintages so there are no pronounced oaky flavours.

Maison Ambroise is a respected small family-run négociant (wine trader) based in Burgundy’s famous Côte de Nuits with 21 hectares of organic vineyards. Made from the fruit of younger vines, Lettre d’Eloïse offers all-round appeal at a price rarely seen for white Burgundy of this quality. Buy a few bottles and you won’t regret it. It will open up nicely in the glass, showing more depth and fullness even after five minutes. Turkey or chicken, ham, pork, salmon, fish pie, vegetarian dishes especially those featuring cheese, eggs, nuts… All of these will shine in the company of aimiable Eloïse.

Alcohol: 13.5%

From Mitchell & Son, IFSC, Dublin 1, Glasthule & Avoca outlets; Baggot Street Wines, Dublin 4; Green Man Wines, Dublin 6W; Drink Store, Dublin 7; Ely-64, Glasthule; Le Caveau, Kilkenny & lecaveau.ie; World Wide Wines, Waterford, usually about €18.95.

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