While some still live in hope of an Indian summer (or even a week uninterrupted by rain), our disappointing weather has us resigned to the fact that we won’t get much wear out of summer clothes this year. But after this morning’s show, we were already moving on, and imagining what we’d wear in September. “Autumn/winter is an exciting season where designers celebrate femininity and use colour, tailoring and a nod to the 1970s,” says Brown Thomas fashion director Shelly Corkery (who wore Prada) held in the grand surroundings of Trinity College’s 18th-century exam hall.
Dior’s windowpane checks opened the show: a trouser suit with culotte trousers. Victoria Beckham’s refined and easy to wear separates next: we loved an oversized beige cardigan over a silk shirt with chain motif (as worn by VB and the Duchess of Sussex) and a white trapeze skirt with sequin detailing.
Alexander McQueen featured an oxblood leather trench and a mannish herringbone coat with clashing check trousers, both belted at the waist and paired with ladylike pearl earrings and necklaces.
Jil Sander’s navy cape paired with floor-length dress, and an oatmeal coloured fluid wool jacket and matching skirt stole our hearts. Pairing the looks with leather platform flip-flops by The Row was a match made in puritanical heaven.
Before Daniel Lee’s first collection for Bottega Veneta was unveiled earlier this year, rumours abounded that it could be the answer to devotees of Phoebe Philo’s Céline left bereft by the designer’s exit last year (Lee worked as a designer under Philo for a number of years). His inaugural collection didn’t disappoint, with clean lines and oversized shapes that feel familiar. His snakeprint leather trench opened the segment, followed by a simple black slip dress with oversized camel cardigan, loosely belted with a large leather and gold belt.
New to Brown Thomas for this season is Paco Rabanne – chainmail creations and disco-ready dresses – and 16 Arlington, whose tiny mini-dress caused a stir. Rejina Pyo’s check coats in both brown and green are eminently wearable for winter, while Stella McCartney’s emerald green silk dress begged the question of what to do with all those strings.
Roksanda wowed in just two exits; first a pale camel thick-jersey cotton suit with elasticated cuffs on the ankles (think grown-up tracksuit bottoms for the office) paired with a crisp white shirt and barely-there heels, and a show-stopping two-toned silk gown in fuchsia and gold. The simple, smart, polished suit by day, and the elegant look-at-me gown by night …
Irish designer Richard Quinn’s chic kaftan with jewel-encrusted neckline and exaggerated shoulder pads, and show-stopping coat with XXL rose pattern (which Quinn screen prints himself) were divine – and was a special favourite for THE GLOSS style editor Aislinn Coffey, along with Dior and Bottega Veneta.
Prada’s Frankenstein-inspired collection closed the show, but it was a simple black wool coat, cinched at the waist with a gold clasp and paired with matching black wool straight-leg trousers that stood out for the right reasons – less was definitely more. Paired with chunky-soled shoes and military-style boots, the models looked ready to stomp into the new season with just the right amount of attitude.
Watch our exclusive GLOSSTV coverage of the AW19 show in the video below:
Love THEGLOSS.ie? Sign up to our MAILING LIST now for a roundup of the latest fashion, beauty, interiors and entertaining news from THE GLOSS MAGAZINE’s daily dispatches.