Summer begins in St Tropez
Godfrey Deeny is on swimwear detail at Chanel’s cruise collection show – and how to achieve that unmistakable Riviera look

Chanel took over St Tropez recently with a movie-star premiere of a film directed by its designer Karl Lagerfeld, a mini-tournament of pétanque played by the beautiful people, and a thoroughly chic cruise 2010 runway show on the port’s harbour.

Some 30 top international catwalk models were ferried across the port of St Tropez in a small fleet of Aquarama Rivas, the chocolate brown Italian speedboats that are considered the Ferraris of the seas. As dusk fell on the Mediterranean port, models marched between the red lacquered tables and chairs of the famed Senequier Café before an audience that included Diane Kruger, Chanel ambassadress Vanessa Paradis, Juliette Greco and Elisa Sednaoui, France’s hottest actress du jour.

“This is my idea of St Tropez’s joie de vivre and excess. It’s such a beautiful and particular place,” explained Lagerfeld, who has been coming to this seaside playground for decades and now has a mansion up the hill.
Thousands of locals craned out of windows or leaned out of nearby cafés to catch a glimpse of the show, a return home for Chanel after cruise shows as far afield as Shanghai and Miami.

For vacations, Lagerfeld wants Chanel gals in semi-sheer Impressionist-hued chiffon, haute hippie dresses; seductive micro-minis paired with Chanel’s classic metal belts and carnation buckles; sequined, pleated blouses, and sexy fringed chiffon cocktail dresses with spilt sides. Lagerfeld also showed lots of denim and pleated cotton party dresses, like one worn by Brigitte Bardot-like Georgia May Jagger, Mick’s daughter, who hopped on the back of a matte black Harley Davidson ridden by the designer’s aide de camp, Sebastien Jondeau, for the finale. 

Catwalk star and Chanel’s ad campaign girl, Freja Beha, appeared in an all-white, Bianca Jagger-style pants suit, the same she wore in the Lagerfeld-directed movie, “Remember Now”, unveiled to some 200 guests the night before in St Tropez’s main market square.

It stars veteran French actor Pascal Gregory as an elderly dandy returning to St Tropez after a three-decade absence and being offended at the new generation’s lack of knowledge of its past. When he points out the house of Colette, France’s most famous female novelist, the girl responds: “Is she a famous singer?”

Post-show, guests spilt up into teams of three for a mini pétanque contest. “We’re gonna win!” cried Diane Kruger, attired in a black singlet, flared miniskirt and mini straw sun hat, as she tossed her boule into the dirt tracks.

Capping off the tournament, the designer’s praetorian guard of dashing dudes – Jondeau and handsome model Baptiste Giabiconi – won the first prize, hoisting their pearl-encrusted cup high into the air, as they posed with Lagerfeld before a tempest of flashes. And what did the cup have as an emblem? A Chanel double CC logo, of course ...

... Contemplating buying a one-piece swimsuit this season? Then think block colour and the classic combination of red (see left) and black; it’s a surefire way to look and feel updated. Remember that if the colour is bold, the shape ought not to be, and vice versa. Clean and simple silhouettes are best. Add definition to a good waist or a slim, boyish figure with a wide or skinny belt (worn around the waist, not the hips!). One carefully chosen necklace or a simple stack of bangles are the only accessories you need ...

... Whether you opt for gingham or stripes, make sure to team these sweet pieces with plenty of attitude for a little grown-up edge. Add hints of gold, bronze and soft baby-blanket beige as well as this season’s ubiquitous clogs to bring the look up to date: remember clever styling can make old favourites look new again. Don’t forget to invest in a good cover-up – it really is worth spending on one that will see you through the summer. Throw on over a bikini for instant glamour (try Anya Hindmarch or DVF for something brightly coloured and, for a cheaper versions, try Monsoon or Penneys).